As great as RAVE is....it does assume you know more than what it instructs.

I had to figure out how to remove the fuel lines on my own because RAVE did not say how to. I was worried I was gonna break it. But then I remembered how a vacuum line on the DII is removed and it is sorta the same manner so luckily it went smooth.

I make these little write-ups for this reason. Hopefully my write-ups will enable owners to keep their rigs they love instead of getting rid of it for a lousy MIL...like the TRES AMIGOS

 

I think I speak for all.....your efforts ARE greatly appreciated. ( there might even be a little something extra in your x-mas stocking this year)

 

With regard to the question on the fuel pump, my original on a D1 was still going strong at 105,000 miles. Unfortunately, they did the recall repair and the second pump lasted less than 20,000 miles. The third one has been in a 115 miles and it sounds like it is defective (loud buzzing noise).

 

If it does fail, you don't have to replace the complete unit. AC Delco EP241 is the actual pump part number. Strainer is a Delco TS7.

 

I recently replaced my fuel pump and this was a very helpful thread. Just one note of something I forgot to do. I removed the fuel lines and disconnected the lead, however fuel was spilling out of the fuel pump and it took me a few moments to realize why. I had the fuel cap on and there was pressure in the tank that was pushing the fuel out of the pump. Loosened the cap and the leaking stopped.

On another occurrence I removed a fuel filter without depressurizing the fuel system at all and had gasoline spray in my face...it wasn't pleasant.

Moral of the story, always completely depressurize your fuel system prior to working on it.

 

Great post jycsalas.
Just one note, I replaced my fuel pump not long ago on my 1997 D1 and the fuel lines were not that kind "easy on", mine were just regular fitting with very tight nut.

 

That's what is says to do in the shop manual.
The real moral of the story is always compare what you find on the internet with what it says in the shop manual.
Photos and tips from the internet that aren't in the manual can be a real help, but even the best sometime leave out steps that are defined in the manual.

 

I am just finishing similar job on my DI, be prepared for a whole lot of fun. My fittings were also the screw together type, but they had corroded together so badly, they were no longer two separate pieces, they had become one with each other on both the in and out sides. I used a specialized removal tool (DL-001Alpha) made from a broken demolition sazall blade duck-taped to a nice scrap of quarter round wood moulding. See Pics for usage.
I think yours is the later model Evap Sysytem, based on the differences in the top connections. My internal wiring did not use the copper braid that was broken on yours either.

 

A few more pics and comments. I tore into mine due to corroded fuel lines had sprung pinhole leaks at multiple points: by engine compartment, along the frame at several clamp locations, and the filter itself sprung leak in the body where the clamp corroded and attached itself physically to the body of the filter. I ended up replacing the lines from the tank to the engine bay, actually right to the rubber of the fuel rail input and to the hard line return from the fuel pressure regulator. I subbed in a ford filter I happened to have on hand. Improved the routing from the tank and repositioned the filter out of the wheel well along the frame. Will take pics of that when completed tomorrow. Here's a few of the progress so far.

I also replaced the tank fill tube due to original being cracked. It was a lot easier after I got that extra mud flap hanging panel out of the damn way.
Love that Fat Max line of tools from Stanley. The anti-vibration design lessens the fatigue factor.

Does anyone know what the broken line is I am holding in the first picture? It is by the fill tube.

 

When I fired mine up after finishing the new fuel lines, it leaked a little at the tube coming out of the top of the fuel pump, as someone else had predicted my repair would. I mixed up some 2 part epoxy and built up a damn around the leaking area. It is now curing overnight. Will retest tomorrow,

If it still is a problem will be getting a new one from RN most likely.