Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Discovery I Fuel Pump Removal / Fix

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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 11:59 PM
  #21  
acidiumsix's Avatar
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I'm about to change the pump in my 98 and these pics are a GREAT help!! I'm keeping my old sending unit, just a New Pump..anyone have pics of that process?
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 02:38 AM
  #22  
acidiumsix's Avatar
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Anybody know anything about the fuel pump seal differences on the 98 disco? The parts stores/computers show 2 different seals but nobody can give me an answer as to which one i need. "chassis va714242-" is what it says under one seal and the other says nothing...what does this mean? I'm about to order both seals just so i can be sure i get the right one but its kind of a goofy waste of $16...My VIN# begins with SALJY1241, but how can i find out if my chassis came before or after the "chassis VA714242" that they show on the parts list? anyone?
 

Last edited by acidiumsix; May 3, 2010 at 02:41 AM.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 08:59 AM
  #23  
XCELLER8's Avatar
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From: sackets harbor, ny
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?? are you referring to the rubber seal around the top of the pump assy where it seals to the fuel tank ??
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 03:09 PM
  #24  
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Can one simply cut the hose fitting and use a clamp? My fittings are completely rusted and I haven't found any available replacement . What can be used?

Looks like I have to change the pump too unless the tubes can be replaced in the pump unit. The fuel out line is leaking (spraying) just where it connects to the hose. I will have to try the epoxy too...

Thanks for any advice

[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 03:56 PM
  #25  
XCELLER8's Avatar
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From: sackets harbor, ny
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mine was rusted about as much as yours looks to be.......there's not a lot there to work with...so as not to create other problems I would reccommend that you bite the bullet and replace the whole unit. If money is a concern ( when isn't it !!) you might look on ebay or some of the used parts suppliers for an acceptable substitute, you know...untill you hit the lottery
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 04:26 PM
  #26  
Danny Lee 97 Disco's Avatar
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From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Default Buy a complete new assembly!

Believe me, you are wasting your time and every penny you spend on epoxies, tubing ect.. Mine was not nearly as bad as yours and I thought I could feed two new tubes in, epoxy the junction and avoid having to buy a new one. Boy was I wrong.

After two such failed attempts, I bought a new one from Rovers North. I wish I had done that from the beginning. Mine is an early 97 pre AEL and was only $105 or so. The newer version is significantly more. Maybe you can find one from a salvage yard off a newer vehicle.

Yours is so bad, you are wasting any effort you put into it. As far as the rubber seal, I don't think there is a difference. I trust those details to Rob or Eric at RN, they have never steered me wrong.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 05:22 PM
  #27  
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Thanks for the answers.

Did you renew the fittings on the hose too?
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 08:37 AM
  #28  
XCELLER8's Avatar
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FYI........most NAPA stores have a "kit" of fuel connections, they can repair a fuel line, or replace a connector, or even build you new fuel lines for waaaaaay less $$$ than oem stuff.
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #29  
Danny Lee 97 Disco's Avatar
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I replaced my fuel lines all the way from the gas tank to the engine compartment, fuel injection rail connections. My lines had corroded to the clamps and developed pinhole leaks overnight after I moved them from their original resting place while getting to the starter mounting bolts.

Came out the next morning to find a large gas soaked area of my driveway all along the passengers side and an empty fuel tank since it is a pressurized system.

Look in my photo albums for lots of detailed pics. I clamped 5/16 fuel injection rated rubber hose from the new pump to the new fuel lines using a fuel injection style clamp.

25 foot rool of 5/16 steel tubing fuel line was approx $25. I feed it in from the gas tank end with the black cover removed. Feed a few feet, crawl under the truck, form it by hand, pull a few more feet thru, keep going til it's done. Improved the routing as well, went over the main cross member then turned outboard then forward toward engine bay.

I relocated the fuel filter out of the wheel well and forward a few feet near the top of the main frame then into the engine bay. One solid piece for the return line, two pieces for the feed (into filter, then filter to engine bay). 25 foot rool was adequate. Had a little piece left over.

Plan to do brake lines as next major project. The ones underneath from abs unit to the rear brakes looks pretty corroded, has not failed yet. I am trying to be proactive on this one.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #30  
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From: St-Pacome, Quebec
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Well, the new pump is ordered. No used ones available anywhere.
And of course, new gasket and retainer ring too. I think I'll have some fun getting this thing out. Looks like the ring only needs about 1/4 turn to release right?

Does it thread on metal or plastic?
 
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