Discovery upgrade to Defender 90 (D90) brakes - caliper and rotors?
#1
Discovery upgrade to Defender 90 (D90) brakes - caliper and rotors?
Hello,
I was just wondering what would be involved in said upgrade in using Defender 90 brake components to upgrade the Discovery 1?
Is it really just as simple as finding:
I have seen some posts talk about moving the existing Discovery front brake callipers to the rear... could someone please explain why this would be done, or if it should be done? I am assuming the existing Disco front brakes would have slightly more stopping power than the existing Disco rear brakes, and give you better all around stopping power with the fronts having the D90 upgrade.
Thank you, I appreciate it. Looks like CarID has some great deals on remanufactured D90 calipers
I was just wondering what would be involved in said upgrade in using Defender 90 brake components to upgrade the Discovery 1?
Is it really just as simple as finding:
- Defender 90 calipers
- Rotors (for the D90 or Discovery?)
- Brake pads (for the D90 or Discovery?)
- New Brake line(s)
I have seen some posts talk about moving the existing Discovery front brake callipers to the rear... could someone please explain why this would be done, or if it should be done? I am assuming the existing Disco front brakes would have slightly more stopping power than the existing Disco rear brakes, and give you better all around stopping power with the fronts having the D90 upgrade.
Thank you, I appreciate it. Looks like CarID has some great deals on remanufactured D90 calipers
Last edited by archaeology_student; 10-21-2015 at 03:05 PM. Reason: corrections
#2
IMO the way to go is D110 calipers. Same size and piston soze as D90 only the 110 calipers don't have a spacer between the two halves. What that means is you run regular D1 rotors, not the vented D90 rotors. My experience is the vented D90 rotors gwt clogged up with mud when off roading and is a major pain to clean out. Neither the D1 nor D90 are race cars and really there's no benefit realized by running vented rotors.
So D100 calipers, D90/110 pads, and D1 rotors FTW.
RedWinch makes brackets to run D1 front calipers in the rear, but you can't just slap front on the back and drive away. Your proportioning would also be off and most likely need adjustment.
Best bang for the buck is D110 dront upgrade. And you can just get two 12" or 18" straight hardlines with fittings from PepBoys or whatever and bend them to fit.
So D100 calipers, D90/110 pads, and D1 rotors FTW.
RedWinch makes brackets to run D1 front calipers in the rear, but you can't just slap front on the back and drive away. Your proportioning would also be off and most likely need adjustment.
Best bang for the buck is D110 dront upgrade. And you can just get two 12" or 18" straight hardlines with fittings from PepBoys or whatever and bend them to fit.
Last edited by fishEH; 10-21-2015 at 06:40 PM.
#4
#5
IMO the way to go is D110 calipers. Same size and piston soze as D90 only the 110 calipers don't have a spacer between the two halves. What that means is you run regular D1 rotors, not the vented D90 rotors. My experience is the vented D90 rotors gwt clogged up with mud when off roading and is a major pain to clean out. Neither the D1 nor D90 are race cars and really there's no benefit realized by running vented rotors.
So D100 calipers, D90/110 pads, and D1 calipers FTW.
RedWinch makes brackets to run D1 front calipers in the rear, but you can't just slap front on the back and drive away. Your proportioning would also be off and most likely need adjustment.
Best bang for the buck is D110 dront upgrade. And you can just get two 12" or 18" straight hardlines with fittings from PepBoys or whatever and bend them to fit.
So D100 calipers, D90/110 pads, and D1 calipers FTW.
RedWinch makes brackets to run D1 front calipers in the rear, but you can't just slap front on the back and drive away. Your proportioning would also be off and most likely need adjustment.
Best bang for the buck is D110 dront upgrade. And you can just get two 12" or 18" straight hardlines with fittings from PepBoys or whatever and bend them to fit.
Example 1:
Brake Caliper - Front LH 110" up to 1986
Ref: AEU2538 / Price $139.95
Application: Defender 110 to 1986 - to axle 20L21632B - RHS, 21L18648B - LHS - Rebuild Kit AEU2539 - Retention Kit = STC8573 - Use Brake Pads STC2950
Example 2:
Brake Caliper - Front LH
Ref: RTC5573 / Price $129.95
Application: Defender 110 - non - ventilated - superceded from STC1262 - from Axle No. - 20L21633B - RHS, 21L18649B - LHS - Use Brake Pads SFP000260 and retention kit RTC5001
Example 3:
Brake Caliper - Front LH - Vented Disks
Ref: SEB500470 / Price $99.00
Application: Defender 90, NAS 90 and Defender 110 - For Vented Discs - Superceded from STC1267 - Repair use STC1280 or AEU2539. Pad Retention use STC8575 - Use pads SFP000260
Which series would work, the "up to 1986" as in example 1, example 2, or example 3? I am assuming example 2 with the non-vented rotors?
Last edited by archaeology_student; 10-21-2015 at 04:33 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Cons Santos II (02-20-2020)
#7
Oops, fixed my typo.
I'd use this for my part number to cross reference. '93 NAS 110.
Caliper - Front Left Hand (RTC5573 Same Fit As Part # RTC5573 ) - Land Rover hydraulics from Atlantic British
I'd use this for my part number to cross reference. '93 NAS 110.
Caliper - Front Left Hand (RTC5573 Same Fit As Part # RTC5573 ) - Land Rover hydraulics from Atlantic British
#8
#9
I love the vented rotors on front IMO huge difference in on road braking ESP since we have the trailer now
I had heard the d1 fronts can move to back, I still have mine just no time to look into it yet
Checked redwinch site lucky 8 is a distributor
I had heard the d1 fronts can move to back, I still have mine just no time to look into it yet
Checked redwinch site lucky 8 is a distributor
Last edited by TOM R; 10-24-2015 at 02:04 PM.