Driver side window will not roll down. Was working perfectly and just today it decided to stop. All other windows work fine.

History:

Regulator and motor replaced a couple years ago or less.
Replacement motor went out after 8 months or so and was replaced.

So, could it be another bad motor?

Or maybe I need to break out the soldering gun on the window ecu?

Where is the window ecu?

Maybe it is the switch?

Suggestions welcome.

Cheers!

 

Well, switches are fine and so are the fuses.

Guess it's another bad motor. :/

If anyone has another idea, please share.

 

Hmm...more research leads me to think it also could be the window ecu which I thought was only an issue with the rear windows. Perhaps it could also affect a single front window.

I remain skeptical but I'll try the ecu solder trick next. Then I will remove the door panel and bench test the motor.

Love answering my own thread.

 

Ugh...

ECU had a couple questionable joints; reflowed most of them. Still no driver window up/down.

I do hear one of the relays clicking when operating the window switch so I assume that means the relay is fine.

Tomorrow it's onto the door panel to extract the third motor this truck has had in the driver door.

 

I suppose the silver lining is that I was able to perform some preventative maintenance on the ECU so the rear window issue will not happen now.

 

Do you use your window alot?

 

Not really, and especially not this time of year in the Northwest. But that fact that a relatively new motor is bad again makes me crazy!

My theory is that the mechanic that replaced it the first time and second time (for free) is fibbing to me when they claim they are using NEW genuine LR parts.

I posted previously about the first bad motor and whadda ya know, we seem to have a second bad one.

Coincidence or cheap, after market parts masquerading as genuine to increase profits at the mechanic?

Anyhoo...I still need to prove it is another bunk motor or something else, though it seems like the motor is the likely culprit.

 

Why dont you change it yourself?
Its not hard and then you know exactly what parts you are using.
Assuming the motor is bad.

 

12v at the motor up and down (reversed for down). Motor makes faint clicking in time with ECU relays.

Me thinks bad motor.

And, Spike, that is EXACTLY what I plan on doing. The original window repair was the last time I took the truck to the shop before going on my DIY crusade!

I looked at the motor and there are no markings on it whatsoever.

Would a Genuine LR window motor have the brand written on it?

I am not going to pull more door panels today to find out.

 

And the question now is, do I buy another OEM motor or spend more than 2x on a genuine one?