Getting that rear shaft upgrade and I think I should rebuild my front one while I'm at it. I read the rebuild threads but since they are for the Disco II's I thought I should just ask and clarify. All I need for the front shaft are these right?

TWO
Neapco U-Joint

Then hit the drive line shop and leave it to the pro's.

 

No. The D1 is super simple. Just two joints and no centering ball. You can probably rent a ujoint press at Autozone, or buy one cheap at your work.

 

Same U-Joints though right?
And yeah I changed the original post as to not confuse next timer's searches haha

 

I am in the process of replacing the rear driveshaft in my early 97 woth a 98 DI d/s to do away with the rotoflex since my rear 3 bolt flange was broken.

Removing the original centering pin turned into a real fiasco, but I just got it out. I screwed up on the recommended technique supplied by a couple of our old timers that do know their way around these beast. So I ended up very carefully and tediously working on it for a few days with a hacksaw before I finally got the old flange and centering pin out. It was a true test of perserverance and determination.

So I highly recommend you fully understand that aspect and equip yourself appropriately before you attack it. Especially in light of your experiences with drilling out the center diff lock rivets. Did you get your CDL working yet?

Removing the locknut under the centering pin was a formidable challenge as well. But by using a hollow extension over my ratchet handle, placing the LR jack under that extension, jacking it up above the torsion bar, then getting beside the vehicle and placing another extended breaker bar into the hollow one, then lifting it, I was able to finally break the torque on that locknut.

I am taking a rest break and reviewing the documentation before I reassemble with the new 4 bolt flange and spacer. It is actually a used 4 bolt flange from Paul Grant along with a new seal and nylock from AntiChrist and a used 98 DI d/s from my local recycler.

Of all goes well I will have it back together a little later today.

Where did you get your upgraded shaft?

I remember ShadowMerchant had one on the rig he was parting out, his 98 Anniversary Special Edition Fiasco. Haven't seen much from him lately.

 

Yes, that's the correct PN.
Did you read this?
https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...rebuild-29302/

 

Well I plan on removing the rear drive shaft completely for the next two weeks. I will be leaving to Jackson, MS for a camp all week then I fly out from there to Houston, TX to go visit some friends and family. Will Claire be okay if I removed the rear drive shaft? I don't want the coupler crapping out on me and screwing more stuff up and I won't be able to get that drive shaft upgrade for the next two weeks, and my uncle needs the rover to transport a new dishwasher and our dogs to the vet. I mean I heard of some really scary tales of transmissions screwing up and the transfer case breaking. I can't shift into hi and low locked yet, but I really haven't had time to take it all off. Sorry guys I work 5 days a week and on the two days I go to church. Any free time I have is about an hour to an hour and a half only and I really can't do much so I plan on waiting till I start school so I can have my automotive class to play around in.

So basically:
CDL is not working
Taking off the rear drive shaft
Is this okay? Do I need to do anything besides remove the shaft to make it safe and okay to drive?

If you look for my "link thread" it has a link to the DS upgrade for $200.

 

If the CDL isn't working it can't be driven with a propshaft removed. You have to be able to lock the CDL to get power to the other axle.

 

But I thought i didn't want to drive the car in lock unless it was in in-climate weather? So what would happen if I removed the rear drive shaft and was still in 4-hi? Just rev happy?

 

The issue when driving with the CDL locked is that on hard surfaces there isn't enough slippage between the front and read axle and you get binding in the driveline.
With a propshaft removed that's obviously not an issue.
Unless you lock it the output where the shaft is removed is the only one that will turn.

 

Oh right bc unless it's locked the transfer case only sends power to the place of least resistance aka the removed drive shaft. So basically i'm screwed until I get the think unseized or until I get that rear drive shaft.