she is running really bad spitting farting will die if you dont sit with one foot on the gas and one on the brake.
I bought a code scanner and could not get it to uplink so I drove her to auto zone. They couldn't get an uplink either....I checked the fuses on the inside of the cab for engine management and did not find any blown ones. I am starting to think that my major problem is the computer. I cant pull codes maybe it is not functioning enough to do that....sure would explain how she is running.

 

I would remove the ECU and open it up and check for water ingress.
The ECU is on the passenger fender, unhook the battery first.

 

are the ecu and the ecm the same thing? or am i confused. and how would I know if it isn't dripping? will it smell burnt? If I do end up replacing this or these I should say do they have to be reprogrammed by the dealer?

 

Yes the ecu and ecm are the same thing.
It will not drip water, it is sealed but over time the seal goes bad and water can get in and short things out.
Unhook the car battery, unplug the ecu and take it out of the truck.
Open it and check for water, you can reseal it with silicone sealant like that used for bath rooms.

 

So you are saying to try and make sure it is dry seal it and put it back on I get that. I guess what I am getting at if it shorted something out it is most likely fried any way right? how would I know anyway if I cant pull a code. If I do replace the ecm would I have to reprogram it. or can you just match the part#

 

The ecu is pretty stout, if it got wet it once you dry it out it should still be good.

Yes you can buy a used ecu and just plug it in and go.
It will then re-learn as you drive.

 

thanks spike It is good to know I can just plug a dif one in. I bout the vehicle with these problems...I just didn't know I couldn't pull the codes till today. I have had it for a week and the guy I bought it off of had it for sale for a few weeks with the same problems....I will try drying it out first so I don't just pay for parts I don't need but I am thinking it may need replaced. so if it is just plug and play I should still probably stay within the same year yes? 96 disco se7

 

You don't want to go just throwing parts at it yet, but the salvage yards should be able to look up in their computers which year will fit. Also you can look at car-part.com and see what years pop up.

 

The ECU will have to be reprogrammed by the dealer. When I swapped out mine for a used one from a truck of the exact same model and year (96) The truck refused to start until they reprogrammed it. Would not even turn over. It did however work a couple of starts right after swapping, giving you a false sense of security that it was going to work...

If I got a used one in and the truck actually started and ran, I would use that running to get it over to the dealer for a reprogram. Just my 2 cents. Dealer cost for a new ECU is almost 4k... that's not a typo....

My local (Chattanooga) dealer charges 100 bucks to do thescan and reprogram. Don't go threw what I did (check the 96 fouling all plugs thread) tossing parts at the truck. IF the ECU fixes the issue great. Bonus that you get a dealer print out of everything that the testbook has to say about everything in your truck so you know what your going to need to fix. Take the extra time to seal up the new ecu before putting it in. My old one had suffered water ingress. Enough so that it had left plenty of crap inside. (and my truck had never been off road or used as anything more than a kid hauler)

On a lighter note, Will Tillery has a bunch of used ECUs. It's where I got mine and he had it to me in 2 days.

 

On a lighter note, Will Tillery has a bunch of used ECUs. It's where I got mine and he had it to me in 2 days.

That is good to know, how much was it?