Endless bubbles and no brake pressure.
Rock Crawling
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 401
Likes: 55
From: MD
(I have replaced (over time) all lines, MC, and calipers)
Also seems to be about 1" of travel in the brake pedal before vehicle actually starts slowing.
These have been consistent through out ownership and replacing parts.
Not sure of your exposure to these vehicles but they brake like a truck - definitely not toyota brakes.
TReK
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,782
Likes: 628
From: NYC
Colton, the divided brake fluid reservoir leads me to suspect you have a Discovery 2. What year is your truck? Does it have 'square' door handles that are flush with the body or does it have regular handles?
Thread Starter
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 27
Likes: 2
From: Knoxville, TN
It's an early 96 model. The handles are square and flush with the body. I don't have any experience with landrovers. But I feel like I've got the stopping distance of a semi. I don't have to push hard to get it to stop. I've got to push hard to get it to even think about slowing down. Locking up the breaks isn't a remote possibility. Well it does have abs. But both left sensors aren't working right now.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 397
From: SE Washington State
Maybe try another brake booster test: Step on brake with engine off, then start engine, pedal should sink down a bit. If not = bad booster.
My D1 also has a divided reservoir, designed to maintain braking if one line leaks. Each section feeds one front and one rear (X pattern) as I recall. There was a recent post about different Master Cylinder models/sizes, with either 1" or 1 1/16" bore sizes. The larger bore will require more driver force, but less pedal travel distance, compared to 1". Not sure if this applies in your case.
My D1 also has a divided reservoir, designed to maintain braking if one line leaks. Each section feeds one front and one rear (X pattern) as I recall. There was a recent post about different Master Cylinder models/sizes, with either 1" or 1 1/16" bore sizes. The larger bore will require more driver force, but less pedal travel distance, compared to 1". Not sure if this applies in your case.
Rock Crawling
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 401
Likes: 55
From: MD
Are you hearing a vibration sound and feel in the pedal when braking?
Could be the ABS kicking in prematurely due to the bad sensors. Easy way to check - remove ABS fuse.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 40
Likes: 19
Try some decent brake pads to improve the brake force.
I had ceramics in mine - for about 100 miles... I had to make an emergency stop in the wet once, and the ABS didn't even kick in!!!
I changed to ATE or TRW (can't remember) standard/metallic pads and even just driving down the driveway felt like the friction co-efficient was 100 times better! Heaps of dust, but they actually work.
Honestly - I thought I had a serious hydraulic issue... but NO... Must have about 5000 trouble-free miles on the proper pads.
I had ceramics in mine - for about 100 miles... I had to make an emergency stop in the wet once, and the ABS didn't even kick in!!!
I changed to ATE or TRW (can't remember) standard/metallic pads and even just driving down the driveway felt like the friction co-efficient was 100 times better! Heaps of dust, but they actually work.
Honestly - I thought I had a serious hydraulic issue... but NO... Must have about 5000 trouble-free miles on the proper pads.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 74
Likes: 13
From: Santa Fe, NM
Colton... reading through this thread, I am not sure I read that you fixed your bubbling issue yet. That would be concerning to me.
I replaced every single part on my ABS system on my '98. EVERY. SINLGE. ONE. Everything is 100% new. Here is what I learned the hard way: You have far, far more air in your lines than you can possibly imagine. Even when you think you got it, you still have more. There is currently a 96 in my local junkyard—I think it is still there. I looked at the parts there, they are the same on the 98.
It may be that you have air in the ABS modulator. I went to Advance Auto and borrowed a brake bleed kit from them. They have a nice hand pump that you can use. I removed the four output lines on the ABS unit and pumped away until I was certain that there was zero air inside the ABS modulator. Also, the brake pressure relief sits underneath the master. It is lower, slightly to the side between the engine and wheel well, mounted on the wheel well. With that, installing one that was brand new, I opened the bleed hole which is on the top of the unit, all the way to the back, and allowed fluid to come out of that. Then, I removed the pipe that connects the pressure relief to the ABS modulator and bled that pipe as it is higher than the actual pressure relief. Then, I removed each line to the ABS modulator. These are easy to follow along and see which are which. The passenger side come out of the ABS modulator on the passenger side of the modulator. I remove one pipe at a time, then bled the ABS modulator. Many times. Then I did it some more because I was not getting that 100% screeching halt I was looking for. After bleeding out the ABS modulator, then, and about the 12th time, I went back to each wheel and bled again—all using the 1-person method with a bottle and a hose coming out of each brake line, as well as setting up my phone video camera to watch the end result when I could.
Bottom line is: You have far, far more air inside your ABS modulator than likely you imagine.
Here is another note to consider: You may have to fire up the engine a few times and allow the brakes to cycle. Sometimes the ABS modulator may have solenoids that are closed and you cannot get anything to come through. I fired up my engine and pumped the brakes many times in-between all of this.
This is my experience. Hope this helps.
I replaced every single part on my ABS system on my '98. EVERY. SINLGE. ONE. Everything is 100% new. Here is what I learned the hard way: You have far, far more air in your lines than you can possibly imagine. Even when you think you got it, you still have more. There is currently a 96 in my local junkyard—I think it is still there. I looked at the parts there, they are the same on the 98.
It may be that you have air in the ABS modulator. I went to Advance Auto and borrowed a brake bleed kit from them. They have a nice hand pump that you can use. I removed the four output lines on the ABS unit and pumped away until I was certain that there was zero air inside the ABS modulator. Also, the brake pressure relief sits underneath the master. It is lower, slightly to the side between the engine and wheel well, mounted on the wheel well. With that, installing one that was brand new, I opened the bleed hole which is on the top of the unit, all the way to the back, and allowed fluid to come out of that. Then, I removed the pipe that connects the pressure relief to the ABS modulator and bled that pipe as it is higher than the actual pressure relief. Then, I removed each line to the ABS modulator. These are easy to follow along and see which are which. The passenger side come out of the ABS modulator on the passenger side of the modulator. I remove one pipe at a time, then bled the ABS modulator. Many times. Then I did it some more because I was not getting that 100% screeching halt I was looking for. After bleeding out the ABS modulator, then, and about the 12th time, I went back to each wheel and bled again—all using the 1-person method with a bottle and a hose coming out of each brake line, as well as setting up my phone video camera to watch the end result when I could.
Bottom line is: You have far, far more air inside your ABS modulator than likely you imagine.
Here is another note to consider: You may have to fire up the engine a few times and allow the brakes to cycle. Sometimes the ABS modulator may have solenoids that are closed and you cannot get anything to come through. I fired up my engine and pumped the brakes many times in-between all of this.
This is my experience. Hope this helps.
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 3
Colton... reading through this thread, I am not sure I read that you fixed your bubbling issue yet. That would be concerning to me.
I replaced every single part on my ABS system on my '98. EVERY. SINLGE. ONE. Everything is 100% new. Here is what I learned the hard way: You have far, far more air in your lines than you can possibly imagine. Even when you think you got it, you still have more. There is currently a 96 in my local junkyard—I think it is still there. I looked at the parts there, they are the same on the 98.
It may be that you have air in the ABS modulator. I went to Advance Auto and borrowed a brake bleed kit from them. They have a nice hand pump that you can use. I removed the four output lines on the ABS unit and pumped away until I was certain that there was zero air inside the ABS modulator. Also, the brake pressure relief sits underneath the master. It is lower, slightly to the side between the engine and wheel well, mounted on the wheel well. With that, installing one that was brand new, I opened the bleed hole which is on the top of the unit, all the way to the back, and allowed fluid to come out of that. Then, I removed the pipe that connects the pressure relief to the ABS modulator and bled that pipe as it is higher than the actual pressure relief. Then, I removed each line to the ABS modulator. These are easy to follow along and see which are which. The passenger side come out of the ABS modulator on the passenger side of the modulator. I remove one pipe at a time, then bled the ABS modulator. Many times. Then I did it some more because I was not getting that 100% screeching halt I was looking for. After bleeding out the ABS modulator, then, and about the 12th time, I went back to each wheel and bled again—all using the 1-person method with a bottle and a hose coming out of each brake line, as well as setting up my phone video camera to watch the end result when I could.
Bottom line is: You have far, far more air inside your ABS modulator than likely you imagine.
Here is another note to consider: You may have to fire up the engine a few times and allow the brakes to cycle. Sometimes the ABS modulator may have solenoids that are closed and you cannot get anything to come through. I fired up my engine and pumped the brakes many times in-between all of this.
This is my experience. Hope this helps.
I replaced every single part on my ABS system on my '98. EVERY. SINLGE. ONE. Everything is 100% new. Here is what I learned the hard way: You have far, far more air in your lines than you can possibly imagine. Even when you think you got it, you still have more. There is currently a 96 in my local junkyard—I think it is still there. I looked at the parts there, they are the same on the 98.
It may be that you have air in the ABS modulator. I went to Advance Auto and borrowed a brake bleed kit from them. They have a nice hand pump that you can use. I removed the four output lines on the ABS unit and pumped away until I was certain that there was zero air inside the ABS modulator. Also, the brake pressure relief sits underneath the master. It is lower, slightly to the side between the engine and wheel well, mounted on the wheel well. With that, installing one that was brand new, I opened the bleed hole which is on the top of the unit, all the way to the back, and allowed fluid to come out of that. Then, I removed the pipe that connects the pressure relief to the ABS modulator and bled that pipe as it is higher than the actual pressure relief. Then, I removed each line to the ABS modulator. These are easy to follow along and see which are which. The passenger side come out of the ABS modulator on the passenger side of the modulator. I remove one pipe at a time, then bled the ABS modulator. Many times. Then I did it some more because I was not getting that 100% screeching halt I was looking for. After bleeding out the ABS modulator, then, and about the 12th time, I went back to each wheel and bled again—all using the 1-person method with a bottle and a hose coming out of each brake line, as well as setting up my phone video camera to watch the end result when I could.
Bottom line is: You have far, far more air inside your ABS modulator than likely you imagine.
Here is another note to consider: You may have to fire up the engine a few times and allow the brakes to cycle. Sometimes the ABS modulator may have solenoids that are closed and you cannot get anything to come through. I fired up my engine and pumped the brakes many times in-between all of this.
This is my experience. Hope this helps.
I have seen people disabling abs as it isn't a great function and faulty at times. Do you have yours disable?
I'm thinking I might have a funky abs unit but not sure yet and I might just disable it to avoid the faulty functions that can happen.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 74
Likes: 13
From: Santa Fe, NM
Hey Taylor, my brakes shoot all the way to the floor ato barely grab some brake for the car to stop. I have anti lock light on. Going to be diving into fixing this soon.
I have seen people disabling abs as it isn't a great function and faulty at times. Do you have yours disable?
I'm thinking I might have a funky abs unit but not sure yet and I might just disable it to avoid the faulty functions that can happen.
I have seen people disabling abs as it isn't a great function and faulty at times. Do you have yours disable?
I'm thinking I might have a funky abs unit but not sure yet and I might just disable it to avoid the faulty functions that can happen.
Maybe you could start from absolute zero, remove the master, bleed it to ensure you have no air in that, then move forward. Removing the master is not that difficult. Two nuts and two hoses. Then, a kit with two hoses and some clips to hold the hoses. About $12.50 at the local auto parts store. Watch two videos on YouTube. Bang it out.
I am thorough. If there is an issue with anything, I start from zero and ensure that I am not leaping over the actual problem. PO on my vehicle destroyed the vehicle, along with normal wear and tear.
Bottom line: I think you have air in the system and the ABS unit likely is not the issue. If you tripped the master off, bled it, tested it, you may find that the master was actually the issue.
