I put in a severe duty chevy clutch (once again against a few suggestions) and now about a month later I am ready to shell out another $50 for a new standard duty chevy clutch (or I have been told a ford explorer clutch will fit too but I am staying with the chevy clutch) anyways major power loss and my tank lasts me close to a day less than it used to for roughly the same amount of driving. I figure within a few months the new clutch will pay for itself.

 

Why not use the one from a Land Rover supplier like AB or RN?

 

Chevy clutch from AutoZone...$50

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERR3443.cfm

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3...39-40-42l.aspx

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-4...39-40-42l.aspx

Thats why.

 

Thanks Phil, I couldn't have said it better myself. The threads on the coupling nuts are somewhat universal across many vehicles (or so I am told, I can prove Chevy and Rover). Rover fan clutches (even made by the same company) cost 3 times the price of the Chevy clutch (maybe 2 times if you find a good deal). It took me literally less than 2 minutes with my drill and unibit to make the blades fit the chevy fan clutch. It's funny AB wants more for the fan clutch wrench then Autozone wants for the standard duty Chevy clutch!

 

Amen. I just did the chevy clutch upgrade not long ago. I didn't need a fan clutch tool and it took me maybe 30 min start to finish. Way better option than OEM.

 

pry bar, large adjustable wrench, and large vise grips = about $15 at Harbor Freight!
even if you buy the clutch tool the problem still lies in securing the pulley!

I tried Phils suggestion first of hitting the wrench with a hammer, but that was not happening so I had to make 2 trips to harbor freight

 

I just did this, you can do a search for a whooshing noise and my thread should pop up. I have the exact bit I used to drill out holes for the chevy fan clutch. Mine is working perfectly but I think I ended up with the severe duty clutch as I still have the whooshing noise. I have experienced a increase in mpg since replacing it and I like the extra fan speed while 4 wheeling just as a extra cooling measure. Overall I am very pleased.

 

And the Torq Flo fan clutch has a lifetime warranty, so you will only need to buy one for as long as you own the truck.
I do not know about the Imperial fan clutch warranty, I would assume it is also a lifetime warranty.
AntiChrist is the one who first posted about this mod, he even gave the part number.
I researched it and came up with the application, so I cannot take full credit for this mod.

 

I have been reading this forum for a while now, and for the most part everyone's input has been EXTREMELY useful; so I would just like to say THANK YOU all for your help.

I too have a 95 Disco1 and the heater core just went out on me about 6 weeks ago. I heard all the horror stories about replacing them and seeing that I live in NC I didnt think I would even need heat so I just by-passed the core. Two days after doing so, the temp gauge slowly crept up towards the red (about the 3/4 mark). I was luckily right by the office so I pulled in before it melted down. I checked the water, added more and thought that was that. Well for the past 6 weeks I have been fighting with this running warm (not overheating) issue. I have had the entire system flushed (professionally) and they ran the head gasket test twice (passed both times). I changed the Tstat, waterpump and overflow tank (it was in pretty bad condition). The fan clutch was replaced this time last year. I even changed the heater core, and yes...it was a beast!!!! Although, I did it without taking my dash off, so I was pleased. Then I read on here that there may have been an air bubble in the system, so I took the advise and jacked my front end up, started the old girl up and disconnected the inlet line to my core. Sure enough, nothing but air came rushing out for about a minute, and then a little water, and then a steady flow of nothing but water. I had my water hose in my overflow tank the whole time filling it up with water. As soon as the good water came flowing out, I put my line back on and clamped her down. She drove for a solid week perfectly, so I was thrilled that I fixed it. the following weekend, I drove up to the mountains to go biking and sure as shizz the "bubbling" sound returned. There I was, on the side of a dirt road at the top of the mountain overheating. Good thing I had two jerry cans full of water with me. Always be PREPARED!

To recap:
I can drive for about 20 minutes, and then my temp gauge slowly begins to creep up to hot (it doesn't "shoot" up quickly).
When it begins to run warm I can blast my heater and the temp goes back down.
The viscous van is turning and I hear the roaring sound in the beginning, but thats it. I dont hear that sound again even when it gets warm. There is the same amount of play in fan when its hot or cold. After it gets to temp, I can shut it down and turn the fan by hand with very little resistance.
Both electric fans are on, I even jumped the sensor so they run all the time now, and it still gets warm.
After it gets warm and is about to overheat, the hoses are all very tight and full of pressure, and I hear water boiling from the intake area. there is also a loud "thumping" sound that the overflow tank makes when it gets warm and I take the cap off to pour cool water in.


I am about to drop my radiator this weekend, take off all my hoses and inspect them as well as my Tstat, once again. does anyone have any suggestions for me before I start this as to what I should look out for? any thoughts as to what could possibly be the cause of this running warm would greatly be appreciated. Thanks again for all the great advice and knowledge.

 

I would replace you're fan clutch before you tear it all down and see if that helps. That air-whooosing sound you hear at start-up should be present once the engine hot. That was how I could tell mine was bad. I would idle, temp would climb, but never overheat. The first time I heard the electric'skick in without the a/c on I knew something was wrong.

Replaced the clutch after realizing it was not engaging when the engine got hot and have never had a problem since, other than the fan seems to run too much now, but better than too little.