Have about 1000 mi on my newly overhauled 4.0. Other than finding a number of things that started leaking due to me forgetting to tighten and a slightly leaky oil pan due to using cork gasket, it has been running great.

That said, my temps have been running consistently 192-195F and sometimes hitting 199 briefly then dropping down.

Yesterday, I was driving home from work in heavy traffic. Outside temp in the 80s. AC on full. My temp eventually went up to 201 then 204 then at one point flicked 206 then came down when I started moving.

Two questions:
1) Is this normal for a D1 in perfect operating condition for temps to get in the 200s?
2) Given this is (if a problem) isolated to being stopped and fixes while moving I can only think it would be related to the fan or fan clutch. The water pump was not replaced but I had it off <1000 mi ago and inspected the impellers and no issues. The fan clutch appears to be operating to me but I will investigate further if we think I have an issue. For the fan, the only issue I could think of is it being on backwards.

From the RAVE overheat troubleshooting it appears to me if I am good but someone perhaps can confirm from the pic below. The RAVE says the fan should be "concave side towards engine".

Thanks

 

Thought I had done a good search before posting but apparently not. Found a pic in post #10 of https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...acement-32370/.

So only question is whether AC on, 85F outside, stop and go traffic temps in the low 200s is normal...

 

I'd say you're ok.
Can you hear the fan clutch engage? You should have no problem hearing it with your window down at lower speeds.
What temp Thermostat do you use? You can always go to a 180° or even 160° one.

 

I can hear mine stop and start with the windows up and going down the freeway and still while missing the back muffler. That thing howls when the fan kicks in! I wish my engine looked as clean and shiny as yours. By the way, the clutch is not what determines which direction your fan moves in. As long as you have the belt routed correctly it will turn in the correct direction. I thought I heard one time that it is possible to route the belt incorrectly, but judging from your picture you have it right. To be sure though, there should be a belt routing diagram when you have the hood popped up.


Mine used to climb the temp scale almost every time I drove it. It turned out to be a severely clogged radiator - top half was warm, bottom half was cold. You might check that too. The fins on my radiator just crumbled when I went to feel the temp on it. New radiator and I have never had any more overheating issues.

 

I think those are normal temps. Most vehicles run around 200-204 normally.

 

I am not recalling hearing the clutch engage so maybe that's a problem .... But also haven't been trying to listen and have AC running so the electric fan is overpowering. When cold the fan is extremely hard to run as it should be. Today after driving home (and again getting into the 204-206 and up to 210 after the truck was shut-off) I went right to the engine and tried spinning and it spins a lot more freely than cold (but still maybe half a rotation). Not sure if this is normal.

I know the clutch doesn't determine rotation - was just thinking I may have put the plastic fan itself on backwards but other photos and reading the RAVE I am confident I did not. The rad was replaced before I put the new engine in and was trying to trace down an overheating issue. Belt is routed correctly.

As for the shiny engine - here is a better pic

On other news, I threw a pending code on my way home p1179... Sighs ... No CEL yet though. I had sometimes needed to crank a couple times when cold starting so I had a leaky injector in the back of my mind. Perhaps the cause. I have an extra intake sitting from my old engine so can always swap if needed. Also have an extra MAF sensor I took off a parts truck just in case ($10). And the front O2 sensors are new. Either a vacuum leak or leaky injector I hope....

 

Oh gotcha - I must not have read that right. Yes, your fan looks like it is on correctly. You should hear that fan roar as soon as you start it up when its cold. The silicon fluid pools in the bottom of the clutch and even tho the engine is cold it will still engage on cold startup. Then after a little while (a minute or two) the centifugal force will spread it out evenly and your fan clutch will disengage again until the little bimetal spring heats up enough to trip a valve letting the silicon fluid to where it grabs. Or something like that. LOL But nevertheless you should hear the fan right away on cold start up.

Dang - that engine looks nice! Wish I had the know-how to tear engines apart like that.

 

Yes def. hear the fan roar on start-up. The question is whether it is coming back on when it gets hot. I gave it some shots of throttle with the hood open while it was hot today and it seems to sound like the fan is working. On other vehicles when the clutch was in "engaged mode" while warm you needed a reasonable amount of force to spin, this was not that hard (as it is when cold) but only would turn a half turn or so with engine compartment at 140F and engine at 195F. Not sure if that's normal. Last time I had a clutch go (on my Toyota) I had the same symptom (rising temp while in traffic, dropping when moving) but when the truck was warm the fan would free wheel like 10 rotations with no resistance when spun by hand.

On my fault code, went for another drive and the pending code is gone. CEL never came on (think it needs to happen more than once for this to occur). That said, my long-term fuel trim is at negative 8.5 or so on both banks .... The short-term values seem to be moving around. The O2 sensors seem fine. MAF idles at 0.08 - 0.09 g/s and climbs up as expected when you give it gas. If the code comes back I might throw my other MAF in and see if that does anything. And then if I can find a fuel pressure gauge check the fuel rail pressure. I also have another intake with injectors to swap out if that's the issue. I hate chasing codes ....

 

What temp Tstat are you running?

 

Stock. I think its 88C? (190ish) Considered running a lower one but had an extra brand new one (which I tested before installing) so left as factory for now at least. I keep a very close eye on temps but haven't got a good idea of what temp should make me worried and risk hurting the engine. I have my scangauge alarm set for 212 and haven't hit that.