I don't think it matters what side of the gasket goes towards the motor, put high tac on both sides of the gasket. When you warm up the engine just remember the coolant will also be hot so allow it to cool just a tad..... You don't want third degree burns. If you can siphon from the radiator it's the easiest, no coolant loss method. Start with the expansion tank and then open the radiator plug on top.....slowly.

 

I siphoned my rad using a small tube in the top plug hole, and one bucket full lowered the level below the thermostat - pretty easy. I guess a guy could slightly loosen the T-stat housing bolts hot if you're concerned they might be stuck and then let things cool down to siphon the coolant out.

BTW, none of the locals had the metal T-stat gasket so I trimmed down a generic Chevy V8 gasket to fit - so far so good.

 

I suggest while you have the pump off look to see if the cam sensors leaking oil , may have easier access at this point

 

My pump is off too Tom. Where are those cam sensors located. Tia.

 

Iirc cam sensor should be on the timing cover near left side the water pump behind where lower rad hose connects, oil gauge senders in the area to , they leak through sender and need new

 

Gracias.

 

OK, so i was able to remove the fan and pump (one of the longer bolts was stuck and took me an hour to get off), drained everything (mostly with small pump and the rest through bottom right long 11mm bolt), and removed thermostat and most hoses. Tomorrow I'll flush everything, finish removing the gasket (incredibly hard to remove so far and still struggling to get to most of it), and begin re-assembly with the new parts and hoses.
The biggest challenge (aside from the gasket) seems to be the short arm of the lower radiator hose... it connects to a metal pipe in a very hard to reach spot behind alternator, pulleys, etc.... any suggestions on the best way to get that connection off and on, and be able to tighten the screw of the new clamp? I can't find any reasonable access...

 

Aint it fun! Pull the hose up, push it down until it starts to creep off. Have the old clamp off or at least past the barb. After doing this a handful of times you become an expert at it and hose never again fuses itself to the tanks neck. Once a year coolant drain prevents this.....

 

I looked at electric swap, with dual Spal 12" Extreme HP. I thought it was going to work better than stock, but after more careful checking, I came to the conclusion that the mechanical fan will flow way more than electric. But the clutch has to actually be working (not slipping). I replaced it with one from AB. I also replaced the water pump with the one with bronze impeller from AB. My stock radiator is nearly pristine (been running Dexcool and distilled water for years by the way), but while I had it off I filled it with Phosphoric acid overnight to clear up the little bit of solder bloom. The other thing I learned was that the original brass/copper radiators are awesome and there's no reason to replace them with Aluminum unless you're relocating it like for a trayback or something.

 

Pure fun all day. Ended up working on short arm of hose from under the truck and had to cut almost all hoses off as they were all fused (really painless and less risky with new utility knife blade, as I was afraid of snapping a fitting). Still working on gasket with razor blade, real PITA this gasket thing as it took most of my day. But I think I'm getting closer.
Questions on the thermostat gasket: it is metal with some type of rubber layer on each side, and one side is ridged and the opposite has the indentation from the other side's ridge, does it matter which side faces the engine? and should i put sealant on this gasket as well? which? (i have high-tack spray, ultra black RTV and Blue Hylomar).
Thanks.