I need to replace the drivers side swivel seal on my '97 Disco.
I bought the "CV Joint & Swivel Ball Reseal Kit (2 kits) Brand New Part # STC3321" from Lucky8 as well as Timken SET37 wheel bearings for both sides.
I was wondering what else, if anything, "I might as well fix/replace since I'm in there".

I'm going to go ahead and do both sides. Grease is coming out the seal on the drivers side and the passenger's side doesn't seem to hold grease and
there is grease in the diff oil. So, I'd say the internal seal on the passenger side is leaking into the axle and the drivers side is leaking grease out onto the wheel.
Just wondering if there is anything else I should do while I have the swivel out.
Thanks,
dcphotos

 

Might not be your issue at all, but did you check that the diff breather is free and not plugged?

 

I did blow that line out with engine cleaner a few months back but I think I'll give it another try.
Thanks for that.
Can't hurt to clean it again.
dcphotos

 

The swivel thrust bearing and washer were pretty worn on my trucks, and not expensive. Also check the swivel pins when you get in there, and bearing.

The swivel bearing preload was way off also, so I needed to buy an assortment of shims from Rovers North to get that adjusted correctly. Pretty important to adjust correctly to prevent steering wobbles.

I changed wheel bearings, but frankly did not need to, changing the wheel race does require some mechanical skill. The LR bearings are very good as long as the grease is good. I would rather change the swivel pin bearings. Best to do stuff now because getting in there is not really an easy task. If your schedule allows, check out the existing parts first prior to ordering new, then if the originals are good, keep them.

 

Agreed with much of the above. If you haven't done this stuff it is worth doing while you have it all apart...

That said, if you want to simplify the job you can unbolt the swivel ball from the end of the axle tube, pull the entire axle and hub assembly off the truck, and change the seal from the 'back'.

 

I checked the vent tube. Pulled the banjo bolt off. It had some junk in it but I don't think it was clogged. I took a can of Berryman's B12 and blew out the line from the top. I was surprised to find the vent line only goes above the tire in the driver's side wheel well. I thought it was one of the two I have on the firewall. I pulled the top loop around so I could spray cleaner into it. I put it back after I took the pic.
I'm going to pull the filler plug and see if oil/grease pour out.
Thanks for the tip on checking the vent tube.
dcphotos

 

Mine ends up behind the motor in the engine bay.

One melted on the exhaust manifold.

 

I have two vent lines on the firewall. Are you sure your front axle vent doesn't terminate in the wheel well like mine?
I'll trace the firewall vents and post what I find unless some chimes in and say what they go to. I'm thinking one is transfer case and the other Auto Transmission?
dcphotos

 

Dcphotos, you have a problem there... That engine compartment is waay too clean!! You need some oil leaks, or at least some grubby mechanics to work on that thing!!

 

Those vent tubes look like mine. On both trucks, my front axle vents use the same clip as in your photo above, but go into the engine bay several inches up, so the hooked end vents straight down, a bit below the brake booster.

Here's a way to check for plugging without disassembly: Use a clean piece of tubing and blow into the vent tubes, the spaces should pressurize slightly and blow back out when released, acting different than a blockage. These tubes vent pressure changes due to varying temperature, so there is very little flow and even a partial blockage is no problem. Only a problem if completely blocked (think melted on exhaust manifold), then pressure increase due to rising temps can cause oil leaks at seals, or worst case dislodge seals.