Yep It's in Canada in the province of Quebec. The only french province in Canada. St-Lazare is the name of the town and Bellechasse is the county in wich it is. Because there are more than one town named St-Lazare. I'm freezing my **** off at least 8 months a year, we have loads of snow in the winter, and cars rust as soon as you start looking at them. Luckily enough my Disco still has floor panels.

 

Thank you for all your answers guys.

> Disco Mike,
I would say I am OK with my hands as I was trained as a gunsmith (I usually understand basic mechanics), later worked in the DYI industry, and then worked in industrial equipment maintenance for a few years.

Usually if the manual is pretty straight forward there are not many things I would not tackle if it does not require any kind of special tools or knowledge beyond what the manual says.

If I cannot rebuild the calipers easily myself I would rather go for new parts, the Disco is not my first car and in the past I never had any luck with rebuild/reman parts.

I currently work in the automobile industry and I know first hand that not even all new parts are created egal so I would rather not even try reman again, especially with brakes parts.

I already bought some Valvoline DOT 3/4, I will buy more to make sure I don't run out and I will bring back to the store what I didn't use.

I already changed one of my rear caliper last year (I know I was supposed to change both at the same time but they shipped the wrong part and I had to change just one because I could'nt do otherwise)


>Geek IM, yep, since I choose to tackle the work on my Disco by myself I buy PB by the gallon now.

I plan on changing all bolts/nuts every time I touch something on the truck because usually they don't make it in one piece anyway.

I don't have an impact/air drive but I have a breaker bar and my 2 arms and hopefully that should do it.

Sounds like I will buy new parts.


>Danny Lee 97 Disco, these calipers look like mines right now...
I will get new rigid brake lines and new flexible lines as well.

I would rather tackle things once and for all than having to come back to the same things over and over again.


>Jull, that's what I suspected. Unfortunaly I just have one day off every week therefore I will order new parts and hopefull I will be able to tackle both side in the front the same day.


>Long Haul, thank you for the advice.
I will keep the old calipers if they don't have a core charge and may be will I try to rebuild them myself later if I can find some SS pistons.
Roger that on the visegrips I use mine all the time, well worth the money.

I am planning on replacing the rubber flexible brake lines with some 2" longer stainless steel ones (next on the list is replacement of the worn out original shocks and springs with a HD 2" lift)


For those who asked:
Short origin of the canadian name St Lazare de Bellechasse:
St is the french abreviation for Saint.
Lazare is the name of the leprosy cured by Jesus as reported in the Bible.
Saint Lazare became the name used by an "Order" in charge of caring for leprosy people and was usually used later in time to design places/hospitals or towns/villages with leprosy people.
Bellechasse : Belle means beautiful and chasse means hunt/hunting bellechasse means a great territory/land for hunting.

BTW, I am french, from France, not Canada or Quebec, for those of you who wonder, but I live in Michigan.

 

Nothing linked to leprosy in my hometown. It was because the guy who founded the town was named Lazare. He donated a fairly large amount of money to build the first church. It was in 1849.

And yes the county where I live is fantastic for hunting. Mainly deer and moose hunting.

I think the work is doable in a single day. It took me 2 days because I lost a whole morning trying to get a stuck caliper bolt off.

 

When I did my calipers I also bought new mounting bolts. Every repair/replacement I do, I always consider new mounting hardware if it is available. Makes the reassembly go better and hopefully getting them out next time will be easier.

I actually had to cut the right rear caliper off since one of the mounting bolts stripped badly. I burned up an electric Dremel with a carbon cutting disc on it before I got the caliper off. I ended up beating it apart with a mini sledge and a cold chisel.

I also use lots of PB Blaster for a few days in advance now. And a very long breaker bar with a steady pull. You can even position a hydraulic jack under the breaker bar and actually jack it off. Your Rover may enjoy that.

I know RN has the dust shields at a good price as well as the short rigid brake lines for up front. I have been told by others that they left the dust shields off because they do entrap a lot of mud and such if you don't bother to wash them good. I have been running without them for a while, even though I do have a new one and a good one from the other side. The front right one on mine was horribly corroded.

 

Are you doing pads and rotors as well? When were your wheel bearings last done?

Might as well have replacement wheel bearings on hand just in case...............

 

Yes, I am planning on buying new hardware, the old one is always to rusty to reuse, I had to grind off the old pads' hardware.

The rotors are fine in the front, pretty incredible actually, I already changed the pads in the front, that's when I found about the calipers' pistons being seized.

I got some EBC 7000 series pads and even with the bad rotorsand without bleeding the brakes I could already feel the difference.

I will need to change the rotors in the back, I am planning on doing the bearings at the same time but because I don't have a heated garage and with current temps and weather in Michigan and just one day off every week I am not planning on tackling that job before next year.

 

The calipers being frozen (seized) is the main reason the rotors look so good. The front pads probably never came into contact with the rotors..........

 

Yes, this is true at least for the passenger side because brake pads looked almost new but driver side it was seized on braking position, there was so much brake dust on the rim that I knew something was not right, even with a pry bar I could not push the pistons back in.

Brake lines wise should I get the +2" or the +5" ? planning on a 2/3" lift with dislocation cones and slightly bigger tires.

 

Im running Goodridge brand stainless extended brake hoses on mine with about 4.5" lift. The front are plenty long enough and the back were close I just bent the bracket down in the back so now theres plenty of extra line. Im not sure how much longer they were then factory anymore but they are worth the money for brake performance. I got them through Lucky8 as per Justins recomendation. The only place I know that makes them longer is Rovertym but if your just going 2-3" the ones Lucky 8 sell will be plenty long enough for that.

 

Yes, I am pretty sure the +2" would be fine with a normal +2" lift but with the dislocation cones it allows the springs to literally "detach" from the body and travel as low as your shocks travel allow. Because I was planning on getting the bilstein 7100 extended travel for shocks I am not even sure if the +5" brake lines would be long enough. Then the problem is how to route the extra lenght of the lines to make sure they don't get caught in something or in the springs if they compress?

May be I should email RTE / lucky8 directly and ask?