The 96 D1 is home.

Battery is charged. She turns over no problem. Does not fire at all. No smell of gas. The previous owner claimed it was the fuel pump.

The fuel pump make no noise whatsoever.

Ohm'd out the fuses for the fuel pump and the fuel injectors. Good.

Checked voltage at both fuse connections. Good.

Ohm'd out the inertia switch. Good.

With the key in "run" position. There is NO voltage across the inertia switch connector. Does anyone know where the inertia switch is in relations ship to the relays and the fuel pump in the circuit?

I assume it is..... battery->fuse->relay->inertia switch->fuel pump......

With the ecu, alarm, ignition, etc. controlling the relays?

Tried to check the voltage at the fuel pump.

Anybody have a wiring diagram? I could ohm out two of the four connections to ground. One of the remaining connections was giving me 5.2 to 5.8 VDC. I am assuming that was to the fuel level sending unit connection. The other connection has nothing. No voltage. No ground. I would like to try and power the fuel pump directly from a spare battery to confirm it does or does not work.

Somebody previous was carving at the fuel pump wires. **** me off.

I was unsuccessful in getting the washer fluid reservoir off to get at the relays/ecu. Top screws no problem. Nuts in the wheel well are loose but spin. There is all kinds of debris behind the reservoir. I assume I can get on top of the screw/bolt heads from the behind the reservoir?

Thanks in advance for your consideration.......

 

All I can tell you off the top of my head is that the black wires should be ground. I think the green is the fuel sender but not 100 per cent sure. The RAVE does contain all the electrical, you just have to get to the correct section to find it. I printed the electrical troubleshooting manual for my 97.

I would double check those fuses first. I would also try to follow the wiring underneath to see what other damage may be present.

I put a new ProLine from RN in my 97 due to a nasty crack in the plastic top around the return line. Also had to totally replace the fuel lines and filter due to extreme corrosion. Luckily my wiring was still intact.

If you do try to jumper power directly at the pump just keep in mind that sparks can ignite gasoline vapors quite easily and with very nasty results. So don't turn it into a firebomb......

 

Well the fuel pump is out and it is definitely toast. Took the pump out of the assembly and tried to power it directly..........nothing.

So I will call Rovers North in the morning...........

Is the fuel pump and fuel injection relays something you can get at a local auto parts store? Or are they unique and I am only going to pick them up from a Rover shop?

Thanks,
RS

 

I believe a Delco EP241 pump will work for you if you have a non-AEL system. Assuming your housing is in good shape.
Read this thread:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=944370

 

The reason I bought the entire assembly was that the top of mine had a nasty crack in it. If everything else is good, you could replace the pump only like Tom said. Or a new complete drop in replacement assembly is available for right at 100 bucks.

 

The fuel line connections were completely rusted. Despite a week worth of 3-in-1 oil, the output line split.

I will play with with replacing the brushes on the old pump just to see if it can work.