First thing I would install a fuel pressure gauge to check how long the system maintains fuel pressure after the pump stops running in hours and minutes. Also check how long in seconds the fuel pump cycles when you first turn the ignition key on in seconds in the morning. Thinking you have a leaking injector. Before you start going wild replacing parts, this a LR Stealership solution where "customer pays" all the unneeded replacement parts until finally one solves the issue is their tactic.
Ignition on, fuel pressure gauge installed, pinch off the regulator return line a couple seconds and make note the maximum pressure the fuel pump can generate. Also check fuel volume amount eliminating the fuel pump. Second I question the fuel pressure regulator as your 28 to 30 psi is too low in my book which causes the injectors to stream or dribble vs strong stream or spray pattern. Finer the fuel particles the better. As I mentioned before, get rid of those crappy single dribble Lucas injectors and install Bosch 4 hole injectors.
Low compression that engine is already dead on it's feet besides consuming and leaking oil looking clean never in long enough to get dirty.
Low oil pressure, worn pump not that bad of an issue, sticking pressure relief plunger yes a known issue and more of the cause loose rod berings. Do not forget worn aluminum rocker shaft bore and rocker shafts bleeding off oil pressure added to the loose bearings at idle.
Crappy and normal for these push rod engines the every morning rattling rods several seconds dry starts increasing bearing wear. A sure bet the babbitt has worn away long ago on the bearing inserts a common normal dry start problem these engines have. Loose worn bearing engine with large bearing clearances I bet your still running thin oil vs up 10 points in viscosity? A pre-oiler install is your best friend if you plan to keep a LR engine running be healthy and strong 200K plus miles. Pre-oiler install before the first start of the new 4.6 engine.

To prevent forum member "ihscouts" from guzzing more six packs of Bier, you should direct all your engine problem questions to him, he seems to have all the correct answers...............I'm Out.........~~=o&o>......

 

lol! cheers. I replaced the oil sensor and the lights gone. I do have some light tapping from oil pan :/ rotella T4 15w-40. The new injectors are just some cheapies from rockauto. I have the new fuel pressure regulator now. I think the specs was 38psi. Might install that this week and note change. I plan on doing a full rebuild of the engine but I don't have the space for it atm. This truck is going to be a land rover... just to putt around farm some day. The fuel economy is terrible.

Ill try to check fuel pressure. There just feels like some bleedoff somewhere. After running a bit it fires right up no long cranks. The previous fuel pump's check valve was bad and would not hold pressure at all. Or maybe it never had an issue. I've not checked like you suggested...my harbor freight tester may not be the best option for this. Will tinker more this month.

 

welp cheapo regulator installed it holds 33-35 psi at idle and throttle same as old one. Unhooked the vaccume line to regulator no change at WOT. Checking bleed off through the night. Timing is a bit off will sort that out... think she might just be old. Oh and iac valve.... when I unplug it should there be any change in idle? mine has no change unplugged. Ive cleaned it and the housing.

 

The IACV is a little stepper motor that extends and retracts the pintel. If you unplug it it will simply remain wherever it was when you pulled the plug.

 

Ok ill go out and test the iacv to see if it moves today. It idles fine. Tested key on fuel pressure its at 30 and drops after 15 mins. Does the Airtex E3270 plug match factory? I also found this one. I think this is what he is using in the video. opinions?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/23129699504...8AAOSwW8RbCLZp

edit: iacv works.

 

What year is your truck. In 1996 they moved from non-AEL (advanced evaporative loss) to AEL and the fuel pump changed. See the stick in the main section to determine which canister you have in the engine bay (round v square) which will determine what system you have.

 

its a 94. I'll have to take a look from memory I think its round.


edit: its round

 

round canister = pre-AEL