I dont know, I've never done it, I was asking a rhetorical question.

 

here's some info I found If you don't want to drop the tank (yes you do need to to replace hose)
Find your local hydraulic supplier and tell them what you need, they will sell you a "hose mender" a double-ended hose barb, and the hose necessary. IIRC, the hose is supposed to be 20 m/m, slightly more than 3/4". If you've eaten your Wheaties and use some silicone lube, you can use the 3/4" emissions hose available from some parts houses. The barb at the filler can be a bear. Emissions hose is typically a LOT more flexible than some other hoses.

Yes, I know, some of you will call this a hack job, but it beats the Hell out of having to drop the tank and run the risk of having to replace all of the lines all of the way to the engine (yes, in Indiana, this is more common than not).

Good luck,
PT

 

Can you do into more detail on what to do?

 

Just filled up the 96, was trying to round it out the the next dollar. when I go to put the cap back on I see a little drip drip drip behind the tire. I look under and what do you know, but the line has split right behind the hose clamp where the nozzle goes. More details about the fix please. Thanks

 

"here's some info I found If you don't want to drop the tank (yes you do need to to replace hose)"

Just where are you getting this information at?

Whoever says you have to drop the tank to replace the filler tube is absolutely WRONG.

I have replaced the following without ever dropping the tank:

1. Entire Fuel Pump Assy (used the drop - in plug and play replacement from Rover's North - their Pro-line brand, roughly 100 bucks for the PRE-AEL version)

2. The entire metal fuel feed and return lines all the way from the top of the tank to the fuel rails in the engine bay. (used a 25 foot coil of 5/16 steel fuel line from Advanced Auto - roughly 25 bucks for a 25 foot coil).
I re-routed the lines and relocated the fuel filter away from it's stock location in the rear wheel well to a spot on the side of the frame easily accessable from underneath the vehicle and used a section of the old feed tube to place over the fuel filter. My original lines and filter had severely corroded to each clamp.

3. The fuel tank filler tube- (Purchased the exact correct formed hose also from Rover's North, don't recall the price but it was very reasonable and an exact fit of the correct material). You do it from underneath the vehicle.

Pictures of all of the above are available by clicking on the correct link in my signature. Also pics of the CDL shifter repair and some other goodies.
If you want a good laugh or you feel I was disrespectful or insulted any of you, click on the other link in my signature.

Drop the tank, what the hell for????? Please, if you do not have first hand actual experience, please be careful with what you advise others to do>>>>>>>>.

Have fun with your Rover. I do.

One more piece of Rover Info: The Range Rover Classic and such did not have the access panel that the Discovery has in the rear cargo floor pan. Several of the owners of these vehicles cut their own access panels to be able to change out the fuel pumps without having to go thru dropping the tank. After much feedback from the service departments and Rover owners, the access panel became a design improvement when the Discovery came out. The primary reason that would necessitate dropping the fuel tank would be to replace the tank itself.

 

You should never try to put more in the tank like that. You are just committing an environmental boo-boo. When it cuts off, STOP PUMPING.

My hose was showing severe cracking so I went ahead and bought a nbew one and installed it without any need to drop the tank. It is completely accessable from beneath the vehicle. For improved access you jack up the rear, put it on jack stands. Remove the rear wheel, you can basically sit in the empty wheel well arera, unbolt the mudflap ( if you still have it in place, and simply proceed. It is not that difficult.



Have FUN.

 

Screw that, I always round up to the nearest dollar, typically I can fit in $2-3 more dollars after the pump shuts off, if I spill it on the side of the truck I take the squeegee and wash it off. (actually in the rare event that I do spill on the truck I rinse the paint as soon as I get home, I always fill up on my way home not on my way into work)

 

Everything on the rrc is just bolted together, so even though the 90 and earlier didn't have the access hole, you can just unbolt the entire cargo area floor panel. There is a photo out there somewhere showing where someone dis this.

 

Good to know.....need to buy the filler and vent hose...