General Maintenance?
#1
General Maintenance?
So i finally replaced my bad A1 o2 sensor (what a bear that was), and as i was under the truck i saw all sorts of unsightly sludge and fluid. I've been searching high and low for the sticky on General fluid maintenace etc but cant seem to find it. I bough the truck with about 74K on it and have since put another 9K on it. I dont want to go any longer without developing real, scheduled maintenance for it but dont really know where to begin. I'd love if someone could point me in the right direction.
BTW Amazon has NTK/NGK o2 sensors that def fit the series I for 61$
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-25044-Oxyg...8421609&sr=8-1
BTW Amazon has NTK/NGK o2 sensors that def fit the series I for 61$
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-25044-Oxyg...8421609&sr=8-1
#3
Check the write up section.
Here is what you need for a DI.
7 qts of gear lube.
1 fluid hand pump
3 gal of 50/50 all aluminum safe engine coolant (NOT Dex-Cool)
8 qts Dexron III automatic transmission fluid.
2 qts of DOT 4 brake fluid.
2 cans of carb cleaner.
1 can of silicone spray.
1 can of bike chain lube.
1 grease gun and a tube of grease.
You can do things all at once or one at a time, whatever your budget can afford.
Basically start cleaning things up and changing fluids.
Here is what you need for a DI.
7 qts of gear lube.
1 fluid hand pump
3 gal of 50/50 all aluminum safe engine coolant (NOT Dex-Cool)
8 qts Dexron III automatic transmission fluid.
2 qts of DOT 4 brake fluid.
2 cans of carb cleaner.
1 can of silicone spray.
1 can of bike chain lube.
1 grease gun and a tube of grease.
You can do things all at once or one at a time, whatever your budget can afford.
Basically start cleaning things up and changing fluids.
#4
Thats helpful because there are some important differences between the d1and the d2.if you hadn't noted the differences spike, i would have gone ahead with the d2 maintenance. So I appreciate that. Is there somewhere I can find a write up on changing the transfer case and diff gear oil?i think ill go there first. Mainly because I want to clean up the bottom of the truck and isolate some possible leaks.
#5
There is a write up on resealing the inspection plate on the t-case in the write up section.
But here is how you change those fluids.
Remove the fill plug on the diff, remove the drain plug.
Once empty replace drain plug and fill with gear lube (I use 75w-140) until it starts to come out of the fill hole.
Replace fill plug.
Both diffs are done the same way and each takes just under 2 qts.
The t-case is the same.
The fill plug (remove first) is at the 10 o'clock position when looking at the parking brake drum from the back.
The drain plug is on the bottom at the back.
I have found the easiest way to change the t-case is to run the front of the truck up on ramps, drain.
Refill and put the fill plug back, then run the back of the truck onto the ramps and finish filling it until fluid comes out of the fill hole.
You will need a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the fill/drain plugs on both diffs and the fill plug on the t-case.
The drain plug is like a oil drain plug, a hex head bolt.
The t-case also takes just under 2 qts.
Personally I run the front end up onto ramps, do the front diff, drain/refill t-case.
Run the back up on ramps, do the rear diff then top off the t-case.
While the truck is on ramps remove your axle breathers and make sure they are not clogged.
But here is how you change those fluids.
Remove the fill plug on the diff, remove the drain plug.
Once empty replace drain plug and fill with gear lube (I use 75w-140) until it starts to come out of the fill hole.
Replace fill plug.
Both diffs are done the same way and each takes just under 2 qts.
The t-case is the same.
The fill plug (remove first) is at the 10 o'clock position when looking at the parking brake drum from the back.
The drain plug is on the bottom at the back.
I have found the easiest way to change the t-case is to run the front of the truck up on ramps, drain.
Refill and put the fill plug back, then run the back of the truck onto the ramps and finish filling it until fluid comes out of the fill hole.
You will need a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the fill/drain plugs on both diffs and the fill plug on the t-case.
The drain plug is like a oil drain plug, a hex head bolt.
The t-case also takes just under 2 qts.
Personally I run the front end up onto ramps, do the front diff, drain/refill t-case.
Run the back up on ramps, do the rear diff then top off the t-case.
While the truck is on ramps remove your axle breathers and make sure they are not clogged.
#7
thanks a ton, this thing certainly keeps me busy. Between the healdiner project and the o2 sensors and now the possible pan leak there's never a day where i dont have something to do. But i dont really mind, i love the truck. I'm trying to sell my wife on a 2" OME lift but she's not impressed. Maybe if i can catch up on the maintenance and show her that it's not a money pit, she'll let me pump a little "fun" money into it.
As far as the oil goes, 75-140, does it matter whose i use? mobil, amsoil, something from grainger?
As far as the oil goes, 75-140, does it matter whose i use? mobil, amsoil, something from grainger?
#8
#10
From what ive read so far the trans fluid is def different on the manual. If you go to the disco 2 forum there's a sticky, third one down? That had all thewrite ups. The 60k maintenance for a used car by disco mike should tell you everything you need plus I think the first reply specifies what trans fluid the manual needs.