I am trying to get to the top of my T case to find out why the shifter is stuck in HI and the CDL won't engage. I've got the centre console off and AC ducts removed. Do I need to remove the auto shifter or is drilling out the pop rivits and removing the T case cover enough to get to the linkages and solenoids?

If I do need to remove the auto shifter, how does the **** come off?

 

You could always cheat, and cut the rubber a little bit wider or not depends on if you want to. Spray some lithium grease or something around the shifter and then put it in N and wiggle the shifter back and forth and around. Took me maybe 15 minutes but I left all my center console in tact. Don't know if that helps or not.

 

There are pop rivets around that CDL boot, cut them and boot comes off allowing access

 

I found some helpful threads in the archives, so I will be drilling the rivets out tomorrow. I might have a lockout solenoid problem too, so I'd better have a look around. One thread suggested drilling the auto shifter plate rivits too to get more room to work, but ill try just the T shifter plate first.

I was told that the T case had been replaced not long before I bought it; that someone at Jiffy Lube had left the plug out and the T case burned up. I haven't been able to verify that, but if Jiffy Lube did replace it themselves there could be other problems with the linkage. Not that I don't trust Jiffy Lube cause I've never been to one of those places, but I suspect they don't hire the best Land Rover mechanics to do oil changes.

 

The CDL shifter is probly siezed, to get to that solenoid remove case or cut hole in shifter

 

CDL shifter boot is off and the CDL linkage moves. the lever moves sideways as far as it has in the past without the CDL light coming on. Here are photos of the shift lever and the lever on the T case in both "unlocked" and "Locked" positions. Does it look like the T case lever is moving far enough?

Also, the owners manual says "A shift interlock safety feature is fitted which prevents any transfer box gear selection being made unless the ignition is switched on and the automatic gearbox selector is in the ’N’ (Neutral) position." Does this apply to the CDL or just to the High/Low shift?

I'm working on the locked-in-high problem also but the linkage seems to be free, so the solenoid is the next thing to check. BTW, the clip is missing from the Hi/Lo linkage clevis pin so I assume this has been out before, but there were aluminum pop rivets in the boot plate so I don't know if it has been off before.

 

BTW, anyone know what these taped off red and black wires behind the auto shifter were/are for?

 

Sprayed all the linkage I could see with liquid wrench and the CDL lever seems to be moving a tad farther than in the pics and makes a satisfying clink on the left side, but jacking up a rear wheel to turn the drive shaft and adjust the E brake confirms it is not locking the center dif.

I am trying to get the auto shifter out to get at the lock solenoid, but the shift cable seems hung up on the plate; I Found nothing in the RAVE on the auto shifter. I think someone suggested drilling out the rivets on the auto shifter plate and pulling it too. Might have to try that tomorrow.

One good thing is that the front drive shaft has zerks and looks relatively new; a bad thing is that someone left one nut off the rear drive shaft at the E brake drum and that universal does not have a zerk. It has a small hole, but would not take any grease using a grease needle.

One other question while the front is on ramps. Where do you check the fill level of the T case? I didn't see an obvious level plug.

 

The CDL left right moves free no lockout, the switch for the light could be unplugged, or the switch is screwed in to far stopping it from working

The high low you need to be in neutral key on that's locked out by the solinoid

You may need to remove the shifter to free the left right all the way

Think there's pics and details in my build thread

I miss typed above , to access the solinoid you cut a hole in the trans tunnel, or drop the t case, earlier models had a removable panel iirc

 

OK, thanks Tom,

I've done the "key on trans in neutral" many times; some places it says to have the brakes on and E brake on too and I've tried that (might be something to do with the brake light switch as a ground)

I'll try to reach the CDL switch: hadn't thought about it stopping the movement - at least I can pull the connectors and check the dash light if my hand will fit down there and then try backing out the switch.

And I'll check your build thread again.


Looks like rain today so I may not get very far with the auto shifter, but maybe I can eliminate the CDL switch as a possible problem.