got my ultraguage in...
#1
#2
found a obd resource...
Land Rover OBD-II Trouble Codes
now i found what my errors are as follows:
P0300 Misfire On Multiple Cylinder
P0307 Misfire Cylinder 7
P1177 Maximum Negative FMFR Correction Fault
P1179 Maximum Negative AMFR Correction Fault
P1313 Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank A
P1316 Misfire Excessive Emissions Fault
i understand misfiring... going to check spark plugs... but not sure about the other error codes...
the car drove like new for about 20 minutes of driving, but once i parked it and shut it off i got these codes... weird...
Land Rover OBD-II Trouble Codes
now i found what my errors are as follows:
P0300 Misfire On Multiple Cylinder
P0307 Misfire Cylinder 7
P1177 Maximum Negative FMFR Correction Fault
P1179 Maximum Negative AMFR Correction Fault
P1313 Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank A
P1316 Misfire Excessive Emissions Fault
i understand misfiring... going to check spark plugs... but not sure about the other error codes...
the car drove like new for about 20 minutes of driving, but once i parked it and shut it off i got these codes... weird...
Last edited by RobertBrowning; 04-02-2012 at 03:39 PM.
#3
#4
can i use any off the shelf MAF cleaner? and i was wondering about doing that because the debate i read on here... https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ean-maf-18781/...
darover suggested this - "I used non chlorinated brake cleaner on a Q-tip and cleaned the sensors real good, then generously sprayed the whole inside of the MAF and immediatly blew it dry with my air compressor"
should i do the same?
darover suggested this - "I used non chlorinated brake cleaner on a Q-tip and cleaned the sensors real good, then generously sprayed the whole inside of the MAF and immediatly blew it dry with my air compressor"
should i do the same?
#5
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Let me share my experiences with you regarding the MAF. MAFR must be "stone cold". It heats up when the engin is started, so it is imperative the element not be warn or you will screw it up. Let it sit at least half hour or more if you started the engine.
Initially I was concerned about screwing it up and having never dealt with a MAF before, I had no clue what to do. After reading all I could find, I bought CRC MAF Cleaner and proceeded.
At the front of the tube is a ring that looks like it is part of the tube holding that wire mesh in place. Gently wiggle the ring out of the way
and set that mesh aside.
Look into the tube, you will be a little opening in there. That is where the heated wire and sensor element is. You spray short burst into that openig then turn it upside down and allow to drain. Spray multiple times until it drains clear. Wipe down the tube. Allow it to thoroughly dry before reinstalling.
While it is drying, you can also remove the IACV from the ide of the plenum (2 bolts 7/32 in) spray it good and the hole it seats in as well. I used throttle body cleaner for it.
You should also clean the external linkages of the throttle as they tend to get all mucked up.
Initially I was concerned about screwing it up and having never dealt with a MAF before, I had no clue what to do. After reading all I could find, I bought CRC MAF Cleaner and proceeded.
At the front of the tube is a ring that looks like it is part of the tube holding that wire mesh in place. Gently wiggle the ring out of the way
and set that mesh aside.
Look into the tube, you will be a little opening in there. That is where the heated wire and sensor element is. You spray short burst into that openig then turn it upside down and allow to drain. Spray multiple times until it drains clear. Wipe down the tube. Allow it to thoroughly dry before reinstalling.
While it is drying, you can also remove the IACV from the ide of the plenum (2 bolts 7/32 in) spray it good and the hole it seats in as well. I used throttle body cleaner for it.
You should also clean the external linkages of the throttle as they tend to get all mucked up.
#7
#10
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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In agreement with what Savnnah said, I recently did mine. One thing I suggest since you will have the air intake all opened up, while the MAF is air-drying, remove the IACV with a 7/32 or metric equiv (6 ?) and spray both the IACV and the cavity it sits in, mine was full of black gunk in the cavity. I sprayed it with TB Cleaner Spray.
Spray down the external linkages (toward the windshield) and then spray them with a Spray Lub so they are clean and smooth as well. Clean all that at one time, Throttle Body as well and you should see a nice improvement in the air/fuel intake system. I certainly did.
I had also completed the Seafoam Spray into the TB a week earlier, and I feel the above steps were much better results than the SeaFoam. I am not impressed with the SeaFoam and would not bother with again (personal opinion) nor would I recommend it. Pouring it in gas tank ok, in oil if needed before a change.
I also switched to Rotella T 15W40 and the Mann Filter and I am a fan of both of them. The prices were great and so is the results. What more can one ask for? Free Beer for Life/Mega Millions Winner?
Spray down the external linkages (toward the windshield) and then spray them with a Spray Lub so they are clean and smooth as well. Clean all that at one time, Throttle Body as well and you should see a nice improvement in the air/fuel intake system. I certainly did.
I had also completed the Seafoam Spray into the TB a week earlier, and I feel the above steps were much better results than the SeaFoam. I am not impressed with the SeaFoam and would not bother with again (personal opinion) nor would I recommend it. Pouring it in gas tank ok, in oil if needed before a change.
I also switched to Rotella T 15W40 and the Mann Filter and I am a fan of both of them. The prices were great and so is the results. What more can one ask for? Free Beer for Life/Mega Millions Winner?