When it comes time to replace fuel injectors, ideally we'd use Bosch Gen 3 injectors for their superior fuel atomization and spray pattern. However, most have stuck with the Gen 2 because the Gen 3's lack the injector rail clip notch to safely secure the injector and keep it from sliding into the intake. After much research though, I found a Gen 3 injector, normally used on certain Volvos, with the correct clip notch, EV1 connector, resistance, and flow. The Bosch 0280155746. After ordering and testing a set of these, I found they not only work, but work great. They fit perfect and I noticed improved idle, throttle response, and power.

Bosch on left, OEM on right:


Bosch Installed:


There are many places that sell these online for prices more reasonable than the less impressive OEM Lucas ones.

 

Very nice.

 

I know it's not been long but have the misfire codes gone away yet?

The injectors you chose are what the Jeep XJ folks are using to upgrade with.

 

Does that fit a GEMS intake as well?

 

And where did your get them from???

 

The numbers look the same to the popular Ford 19lb injectors from this site: Stan Weiss' - Electronic Fuel Injector (EFI) Flow Data Table

EXCELLENT find!



Part Number lbs/hr cc /min grams /min PSI BARS lbs/hr cc /min Application n-H
F6VE 19.0 199.7 143.6 43.5 3.0 19 199.7 Ford 5.0 5.8 4.6 v8
0-280-155-746 19.0 199.7 143.6 43.5 3.0 19 199.7 Volvo 5-2.5l, 6-3.0l-

 

So these will net better performance in a stock D1 currently having no issues? Just better spray and atomization?

 

These did not fix the misfire codes.

Mine's a 97 so it's GEMS. Should work on any year D1.

Got them here refurbished (wasn't sure they'd work): http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/catalog/edit_catalog_items.cfm/4511825
New is preferable of course, now that we know they work.

Theoretically, yes they could net better performance due to the better atomization, but I don't have the tools to prove it.

 

how much effort does it take to do that job

 

Remove various tubing, cables, and connectors. Remove plenum, inlet manifold, injector rail, and associated nuts and bolts. Reassemble. Your parts may be more or less stuck together, so difficulty varies. Exact steps are in RAVE.