hopefully that was in preparation for soldering the wires together, and not just wrapping the new one around and electrical taping!
hell id even say use a vampire clip before laying some bit of the wire bare and wrapping the wire together...

i bought a used car from a friend who had a very high end audio shop install a nice alarm in it. in the process of doing some work on the car (and removing the alarm) i came to find out that this shop had been in the habit of stripping ~1" of insulation off wires they needed to tee into, and just wrapping the new wire around with some tape! it was horrifying!

anyway...

 

Nah bro. Told you, i dont do electrical. Especially not solder. I mean i HAVE it, but it's a LOT easier for me to just wrap those critters together than to bust out the ol' soldering iron. Although....now you're making me feel bad. Maybe i will solder them together because i just sleuthed out the issue for my lights not working. I have two separate bad grounds for the circuit...like i said, i dont do electrical. Once i fix the grounds and MAYBE solder the wires together i'll be good to go.
Savannah, you and i were both right. it was the red and yellow wire, port five. for the switch. Ahh well, i'l chalk this up as a small victory for me. Now all i need to do is get my ECU to say it's "ready" so i can get the truck inspected and i'll be back in business. Everything is turning up roses. (knock on wood).

And for those interested, the wife is doing well. Finally going to go back inot work tomorrow. Thanks for all your warm wishes.

 

You want pin 5, that is fused battery volts switched by the relay. Pin one is a low level voltage switched to ground by the rear fog switch, and if the multi-function unit is getting positive volts from the main light switch it will sink the fog lamp relay to ground, turning on the volts to pin 5. That assumes that your module wants +12 to turn on the lights and zero to turn them off.

 

yup, pin five was what i went after initially, but when it didnt magically work i was crushed. At the time REALLY didnt want to trace the wires for continuity, but honestly it took me five minutes with ten feet of speaker wire to figure out where the issues were. Two bad grounds. Boom. done. also dropeed the beast off at the shop at the corner to be inspected tomorrow am....fingers crossed

 

well, maybe dont solder them then, but if youre joining wires together like that then just skip straight past removing any insulation and just use vampire clips.

itll make less of a mess of things when someone wants to remove them later

 

Someone else???? blasphemy! I'm riding this truck till the wheels come off!

I bet i dont make it three weeks before i order these
Hella 500 with H.I.D. 6000k retrofit done the right way - YouTube

 

So you're tying your front fog lights into the rear fog lights? So when you press the switch they ALL come on? Have you ever thought there might be a situation where you want one or the other on, and not BOTH?
If I were you I'd just slow down. Source the proper switch, and wire the lights properly on their own circuit.
I would also hold off on the HID kit until you've got a better grasp of 12v wiring. Like the guy in the video said, he "likes his sh*t sano". Skinning wire and wrapping another around it is anything but.
Are you doing this quickly to pass some sort of inspection?

 

in any case, id either solder them if youre continuing with the technique youre using, or dont strip off any insulation and use vampire clips, which are still ghetto, but must less so than the direction youre headed now...

 

No. I didn't/dont think there would be a time I'd want one and not the other on. At any rate I'm going to the wrecker soon for some new wheels. When I get there I'll also get a real fog switch, wire the lights right, and solder them.
I follow everyone's advice on here on the hardware, why wouldn't infor the electrical, especially since I know less about electrical. ::SIGH:: so for a real switch done the right way I need power coming into the switch to light it. PLUS power from the battery or just a ground? The power to light it I need to pull from somewhere where power is only on when the headlights are on. Fish, you've wired a ton of fog lights. Where do I pull that accessory power from?

 

In case you can't tell I'm super bull headed and hate doing things "the right way" when there's a faster easier way. So this is real progress for me. Haha.