Hello Everyone,

I have been a long time fan of Rovers, but for the last 5 or 6 years I was strictly a Jeep guy. In the past I've built all the heavy hitters in the Jeep community, from DD XJs to full 4 linked, Buggy style, Wrangler rock crawling, trailer queens. Now, my last project was a 71 Toyota FJ40. It was my favorite build I've done, frame off resto, show quality body work and paint, and a visious GM 6.0 LS swap. Of course it rolled on 37" KM2s with a 6 speed, and a Toy box gear splitter. However, after I finished the FJ I realized then that I had built this rig nice enough for the "rich folk's" off road show. Long story short, I had a friend of mine offer to buy it, and I was toy-less. After months of looking for my next project, I had decided on a Disco 1. Being in Alabama, most of these rigs are drove by rich high school kids, therefore either beaten to death, or absurdly expensive. After giving up the search a few weeks ago, a good friend from my childhood let me know about the Disco he'd been Daily driving. Then he told me it was for sale. Suddenly I had found an acceptable rig, that I knew some history of, and just had to work out a price. The Disco was a 1998 with 171k, 4.0 V8, Hunter Green, no lift, and pretty much factory. It has an ugly, home fabbed, steel pipe front bumper, but he has the factory bumper that I should be getting soon. At first glance it had its obvious gremlins. The tires didn't match, ugly front bumper seams in front seats are separated, the rear windows didn't work, no dash lights, blown headlight bulbs, and it ran rough, with a miss in what sounded like 2-3 cylinders. He had leaking sunroof problems, so he siliconed them shut. Luckily for I, my buddy knew nothing about cars. He is the typical "internet know it all", but couldn't turn a wrench if his life depended on it, and god forbid he get some dirt under his nails. Me, I enjoy wrenching, don't mind some dirt and grease, and have a shop with CNC mill, plasma, lathe, press brake, and tube bender. Not to mention a 2 post lift, enough Snap On, Matco, and Mac tools to finance my own island. Plus, I know how to use all of this stuff!!! Anyway, back to the Disco story. My buddy was asking 3500 claiming it just needed a distributor cap (not joking). I talked him into $1200 cash, and I'd assemble an AR15 lower he had. I finally had a Land Rover! I drove it to the closest Napa parts store, bought a set of plugs, wires, fuel filter, coolant, tranny fluid, some Rotella T-6 5w40, and a Wix filter. So now I have about 1500 in the rig, and after I changed the plus, and wires it runs like a top! No missing, sputtering, nothing. I then searched on this very forum, and read how to re-solder the window ecu, now the rear windows work! I have been daily driving the rig for the last 4 days with absolutely no trouble. I will say, I'm very impressed with the discovery. It is the most comfortable, old off road rig I've had. Now, I'm sorry about the long, soap opera I just wrote for all of you guys. I do have a few questions, if you would kindly answer I'd sure appreciate it.

1. Is the 5w40 Synthetic Rotella T-6 a good choice? I run it in everything else I own in various weights. (06 Ford F250 6.0PSD, 2011 4 door Jeep JK Rubicon, 99 Jeep XJ 4.6 Stroker, 09 Chevy Tahoe Z71)

2. Any idea why I have no interior lights when I open the door?

3. It has a mixmatched set of 255/70/16 on it now with factory springs, no lift. Will 265/75/16 BFG Km2s, or Toyo OC MTs fit with a 2" lift.

3. I've looked into the Terrafirma lift, debating on 2 vs 3 inch options. What all needs to be upgraded for the 3"? I'm not a fan of OME for the cost, I've ran their stuff on other rigs, and its not worth twice the .money IMO.

I guess that's all I have for now, but there will be plenty more questions. Lastly, thanks in advance for the help. I'm proud to be a part of the Land Rover family. If any of you guys ever have jeep questions, I'll be happy to help since that's my biggest source of automotive knowledge. Happy Trails boys!

- Jeremy
Roll Tide

 

1. yes. great choice. the 15/40 is good for warmer climates, too
2. bulb / switch/ fuse
3.yes
3.usually good on brake lines under 3".


welcome

 

Thanks For the Reply, and welcoming

1. I figured the Disco would like my favorite ol' Lube. I go thinner in the warm months, and thicker for the 3 months of Winter here in the "Heart of Dixie"

2. The bulbs are good, and the lights work when I turn them on manually, and i cheeked all fuses when my dash lights/ passenger tail light was out when the headlights were on, so any idea from there?

3.Thanks!

4. If i do go 3'' what driveline modifications are needed? of course brake lines, ect. What about a transfer case drop, or driveshaft cut and paste?

5. What are your shock recommendations for obtaining a good, soft yet, firm and stable ride? I have ran Blistiens and Fox on Jeeps in the past, and the good Blistiens 5150s? I believe were the good ones? Is there a company that does custom valcing for the Disco 1 to get a really dialed, smooth ride?\


Pictures! the factory one is what I currently have, and the nice lifted one is kinda my goal for this rig. Agressive enough to hit the trail with the old lady, and conservative enough for her to drive it to the grocery store. There won't be a woman with a sexier rig, but the 45 under her shirt make me even more proud. Haha she had a good teacher in the weaponry dept. [IMG][/IMG]

 

i'm going to scoot you over to the d1 section, so you will get more views.

 

OK, thanks! New to this forum. Don't mind my ignorance.

 

There is a plunger switch on the driver door jamb that might be bad. It controls the light when you open the door.

 

Hey welcome to the Rover side. I have had my fair share of 4x4's; two Jeep Grand Wagoneers that were restored and modified, an '85 Toyota 4-Runner that I did a complete rebuild of the 22-RE, two Suzuki Samurais that were turned into rock crawling rigs, and a '96 S-10 Blazer (yeah I was young and didn't know what I was thinking). Anyways I'd always wanted a Land Rover since I saw one off-roading bone stock and it was going everywhere I was in my heavily modified Samurai. Here about two years ago I got my hands on one and as many times as I've cursed at the limey and threatened to sell it, it's still sitting in my drive. So I guess I went through all that to say good choice and good luck. Now on the oil I prefer Amsoil but Rotella is good too. I think I'd check the switch in your door, as was previously mentioned. If the switch is good then I'd check the fuses under the steering wheel. As far as tires and lift I defer to others with more knowledge on the subject. Anyways there's my 2 cents worth hope it helps.

 

I think that pic is a 3 inch lift. I could be wrong. Looks like 235 85 16 tires. My Discovery had a 2 inch lift. I probably could have fit 265/75.
Once passed the 2.5 mark you have to start changing things. Longer brake lines. Offset arms etc.
Do yourself a favor and change all fluids. Go through the D1 tech section and go down the maintenance list.

 

Thanks everyone, I have to say, even with my limited experience of Land Rovers. This rig, and the others I have witnessed are some of the most capable vehicles on earth. Even with the factory coils. Which, as much I hate to admit it, is more impressive than any bone stock, factory Jeep. Maybe, my XJ is more capable on the rocks, but its been strategically built for the rocks. I'm still a Die Hard Jeep guy at heart, but I've drank the Rover Cool-Aid. I'll have to check out the door plunger switch tonight. I think I've decided on the Terrafirma 2'', this vehicle won't be a hardcore off road rig, but certainly able to handle the trails, and hairy camping/ hunting adventures. I'm really enjoying crawling all the LR forums, and the amazing amount of information all of you guys have to offer. Not to mention, you guys don't seem to be a rude, know it all clan like the Jeep guys. I've built around a dozen various models of Jeeps, and I'll never turn away from anyone's advice, even if they just bought a new JK yesterday. Oh, and I am engineer, try finding an open minded, knowledge seeking engineer. Kinda a Paradox.

So, Here are my dumb questions for the day. Today, it was cold in Alabama, like actual cold 24 degrees at 2pm. I went out to the shop with my trusty Labrador child, opened the back door for her, and I climbed in the cockpit and fired her up. No problems on the cold start or anything, just as smooth as can be. My question is this: I have all these heat/ac vents in the back, but they seem to only blow when the AC is on, not the heat. So, do these vents only blow cold air? The little heat vents on the bottom rear of the console blow heat, but nothing out of the ceiling vents? Is there a button I need to press for rear heat? Not a huge deal considering the AC works like a charm back there, but it'd be nice to have rear heat as well. I don't need my spoiled Black Lab getting cold on the way to work.

I'm sure I can find if I look, but maybe one of you guys can tell me really quick: Are the transfer cases in these rigs gear driven or typical chain driven like the Dana 231 jeep style? And how big of a job is it to re-build the transfer cases? not having any issues with it, but might pull it apart and inspect/rebuild when I drop the tranny pan to change the gaskets and filter.

And lastly: what is the factory gear ratio for the 98 disco?

Oh and I haven't picked up a Repair Manual, so which do all you guys recommend? I'm usually a Chilton huy, but I normally end up with all that I can find being a complete research junkie gearhead.

Hope ya'll have a good one. Back to working on Toolpathing Algorithms.


What is the normal factory gearing in these rigs? I was thnking like a 3;

 

"I go thinner in the warm months, and thicker for the 3 months of Winter here in the "Heart of Dixie" "

Did I read that right? Thinner for warmer months? I thought it was just the opposite.