Help! Head Gasket/Bottom End Knock/Engine Woes
I like the replace head gaskets, main bearings, v/c gaskets, oil pan gasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, clean and re-gasket anything that looks suspect, and drive it. save that money and finish all maintenance issues, then look at some mods you wanna do. That's the route to take.
I like the replace head gaskets, main bearings, v/c gaskets, oil pan gasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, clean and re-gasket anything that looks suspect, and drive it. save that money and finish all maintenance issues, then look at some mods you wanna do. That's the route to take.
Last edited by Mountain Goat; Mar 28, 2011 at 08:59 PM.
Thank you, Danny Lee, excellent reference there. I received the following response back from East Coast Rovers:
The 4.6 is a bolt in. No modifications, no special anything required.
Just swap the long block from the RR into your Disco and use all the Disco parts on it.
No mods required. you'll need to make sure the block you are going to use has the same mount for the crank sensor. If it doesn't you can change these, but it requires tig welding, so it is best to get the block you need.
If you want the most performance from the engine you will need to get a chip set from Tornado System in the UK, but it will run on the stock 4.0 tune if you like.
Any ideas of how I can confirm the type of crank sensor bung or mount if I'm buying an engine and having it shipped to me?
EDIT: I just fielded the same question to ECR and will post the response here.
The 4.6 is a bolt in. No modifications, no special anything required.
Just swap the long block from the RR into your Disco and use all the Disco parts on it.
No mods required. you'll need to make sure the block you are going to use has the same mount for the crank sensor. If it doesn't you can change these, but it requires tig welding, so it is best to get the block you need.
If you want the most performance from the engine you will need to get a chip set from Tornado System in the UK, but it will run on the stock 4.0 tune if you like.
Any ideas of how I can confirm the type of crank sensor bung or mount if I'm buying an engine and having it shipped to me?
EDIT: I just fielded the same question to ECR and will post the response here.
The main reason that I would like the remans is the warranty they provide over doing it yourself or trying a local garage, being at the mercy of the workmanship of the same.
You may do fine with Spike's way but don't overlook things like the water pump, oil pump and various other internals that may be "ripe" for replacement in your existing higher milage motor.
It would be a damn shame and costly if you try to go the absolute minimal route and end up having to tear back into it anytime soon. If I was going to tear into it, I would want to at least research and be prepared to replace or refresh whatever else may be lurking in there for you.
Those rebuilders did also say they offer less expensive used motors and some will buy your removed one if you did desire to go that route.
A lot depends on how much you can take care of yourself also.
If I ever run up on a good used one, I would like to grab it and take my time freshing it up, even though mine is running very well currently.
What did that cost you to get done? The reason I ask is that if you had to sub out that simple of a job, then maybe any engine rebuild is beyond your current capabilities? (Just asking, not trying to be rude)
Yeah I was thinking about oil pump and water pump. I think I'll do them or have them done. If I had a garage, and a bit more stable lifestyle, I would agree 100% on freshening up a used engine, I'd probably do a complete rebuild over time. However constantly jumping back and forth between full time college studies, internships in various locations, and running an audio business on the side, I won't undertake a project of that magnitude. I do all the suspension & body work myself on all three of my vehicles, as well as all sensors, fluids, and engine accessories. I've done the driveshaft, CV axle, etc. At this stage I prefer to leave the following items up to professionals: engine and differentials.
"Have to" is not entirely accurate. I was working 60 hour weeks and didn't want to deal with it. I don't remember the price but it was cheap. I don't shy away from any repair if I have the time, I've worked on cars extensively for almost a decade now. Probably done 60-70% of all repairs I've ever had.
I don't blame you on that, just be prepared to throw down some significant bucks my friend.
I know a local guy who just bought a DII from a young couple. They had taken it to the LR dealear for the 90K service and it cost them 6 grand to get it back. They decided they could not afford to keep it and put it up for sale. He paid them $5500 cash for it and it was immaculate inside and out. He has since replaced the driveshaft.
I know a local guy who just bought a DII from a young couple. They had taken it to the LR dealear for the 90K service and it cost them 6 grand to get it back. They decided they could not afford to keep it and put it up for sale. He paid them $5500 cash for it and it was immaculate inside and out. He has since replaced the driveshaft.


