So just got off the phone with the dealer, woah, I am still in shock, ECU (electronic control module)is $4072, alarm unit is $788, Immobilizer $788 and BCU (body control unit) is $1700. The good news is that the ignition pick ring sensor is only $54. To resynchronize the security system is about $75. Sooo its either a relatively cheap fix or very expensive one depending on what components need to be replaced.

 

He pulled those numbers out of his butt to scare you away so that you won't bring a D1 to the dealer.

D1 doesn't have a BCU.

ECM might be this: http://www.landrovermerriamparts.com...&siteid=215719 which is almost $3000, but you could buy a used one for $100 or less at a junk yard.

I'll bet the the alarm box is NLA: http://www.landrovermerriamparts.com...&siteid=215719

some good info here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/land-...m-problem.html

 

Thanks for the info, at this stage I am considering my options. Apparently the exclusive EKA code for the vehicle is not available directly from the dealer I have to bring it in so they can read it off the scanner.

 

Well $100 for a used ECU sounds better then $4072. I suppose that I would have to have the used ECU synchronized by the dealer, still this would save me some money

 

Maybe. If you search around on Discoweb.org and pirate4x4 you'll see some talk about this. Some have put used ecu in D1 without programming anything. Some have had to. It's kind of hit or miss.

 

Well I may have lined up a used ECU for $75 for a 1998 Discovery would that work in a 1996.

 

Probably not. 1998 would have advanced evap. You'd need 1996 or early 1997.

Try here: http://car-part.com/

computer box - engine is what to search for.... but why do you think your computer is bad? Some people have successfully cleaned corroded computers if that's what the problem is.

 

I dont know for sure, the ECU may still be working , I maybe jumping to conclusions. The vehicle was running well until i let the battery drain too low. i am worried that by connecting and disconnecting the battery and some modules i may have fried some circuits. Not a good idea to disconnect battery to try and reset something, the system seems to remember what was going on at the time you disconnected the battery, so you are no farther ahead. One member of the forum suggested to reset the ECU by touching the positive and negative terminals of the battery , that did seem to make things better one of the only things that seemed to help by disconnecting the battery.

 

If you're going to take it to a dealer anyway, do that first. You can have them turn off all of the Alarm features that disable the car.

Rather than change the ECU without checking though, just get a cheap scan tool and check for codes. You might be able to borrow one. I don't remember if it tells you that it's been disabled by the alarm, but if it talks, you'll learn what's going on.

Or you could just buy A hawkeye scanner and the optional cable. About $400 for the scanner and I think it as another $50 or so for the alarm adapter.

Then you'll be able to do your alarm, the engine controller and the ABS system. Another adapter lets you do the Airbag system. Pay the dealer or pay for the scantool. I got the scantool. Once you get done with a few tows to the dealer, it looks like a steal.

 

The hawkeye scanner sounds like a good idea, provided i could pick up a good used one off ebay or somewhere