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HELP - Shorted something

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  #41  
Old 03-04-2013 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Do warning lights come on at position 2 ?
Nothing comes on the dash with the key in any position.

If I turn the headlights on, the panel illumination works, but that's it.

No warning lights, no chimes, no anti-theft light.
 
  #42  
Old 03-04-2013 | 01:12 PM
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All of that stuff is fed by MF5 in the engine compartment fuse box. It's got other individual fuses inline, but it's all common at MF5.
 
  #43  
Old 03-04-2013 | 08:48 PM
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Neg battery cable to mf5 (ignition circuits?) Reads 12v key off and on.

F17 shows 0v across the pins. Ground to f17, key off or on, the meter moves around as if the probe were just exposed to air.
 
  #44  
Old 03-05-2013 | 01:25 AM
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If no 12 volts at F 17, the possibility exists that the ignition switch is damaged. But volts should only appear at F 17 when key is turned to "crank" position, not position 2.
 
  #45  
Old 03-05-2013 | 04:49 AM
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What he said. :-)

However something concerns me.... NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE TO MF5!!!!! NO NO NO!

Please tell me that you made a mistake typing that. It should be the POSITIVE cable.

Otherwise I'm guessing your truck is toast.


Assuming that that's a mistake, was there 12V on BOTH sides of MF5?
 
  #46  
Old 03-05-2013 | 07:27 AM
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I think he means measure between negative cable and MF5. But this is slow, like playing chess by snail mail.
 
  #47  
Old 03-05-2013 | 07:34 AM
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That's exactly what it's like, but what can you do? It would take hours to study all of the possibilities and write out a comprehensive troubleshooting process.
 
  #48  
Old 03-05-2013 | 07:50 AM
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If NO lights come on at position 2, consider the oil light. It gets a ground thru the block. It gets battery voltage via the ignition switch, the closed oil psi switch, F14, via MF5 and the ignition switch - yellow wire.

One convuluted test would be to unplug F14 under dash. Read for ohm (continuity) between each side of the fuse holder pins and chassis ground. Should see ohms on one side to ground. Extend meter lead (they are never long enough) and read from the other side of F 14 (un-grounded) to MF5 for ohms. May have to slip off battery cable to prevent normal 12 volts from skewing meter reading.

Either ignition switch is fried, or junction/splice S233. Wonder where that is.... with "2" it should be between firewall and cigar lighter in what would be thought of as the dash area.

See attached page 343 of 591 of the electrical guide (97).


Wonder if these wires for S233 splice are the same as pictured? Or nearby?
 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
d1 s233.pdf (444.4 KB, 77 views)

Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 03-05-2013 at 08:04 AM.
  #49  
Old 03-05-2013 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by gprtech
NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE TO MF5!!!!! NO NO NO!

Please tell me that you made a mistake typing that. It should be the POSITIVE cable.

Otherwise I'm guessing your truck is toast.

Assuming that that's a mistake, was there 12V on BOTH sides of MF5?

Im confused. I thought you said to check voltage between MF5 and a ground. Isnt the neg cable a ground?

I clipped the black probe to the bolt on the neg cable and put the red probe on each fuse screw.

Regardless, nothing exploded and yes, 12v to both sides of MF5
 

Last edited by pinkytoe69; 03-05-2013 at 08:57 AM.
  #50  
Old 03-05-2013 | 09:10 AM
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I think he means measure between negative cable and MF5. But this is slow, like playing chess by snail mail.
Haha, yeah, sorry. I work a 9-5, so I get in and see the suggestions, then I go home and try them out. Sometimes I then post the results at night, but still dont usually see replies till the next day. Then we repeat the dance.


Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
If NO lights come on at position 2, consider the oil light. It gets a ground thru the block. It gets battery voltage via the ignition switch, the closed oil psi switch, F14, via MF5 and the ignition switch - yellow wire.

One convuluted test would be to unplug F14 under dash. Read for ohm (continuity) between each side of the fuse holder pins and chassis ground. Should see ohms on one side to ground. Extend meter lead (they are never long enough) and read from the other side of F 14 (un-grounded) to MF5 for ohms. May have to slip off battery cable to prevent normal 12 volts from skewing meter reading.

Either ignition switch is fried, or junction/splice S233. Wonder where that is.... with "2" it should be between firewall and cigar lighter in what would be thought of as the dash area.

See attached page 343 of 591 of the electrical guide (97).

Wonder if these wires for S233 splice are the same as pictured? Or nearby?
I will check this out tonight.
 


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