Torque is 25 Nm and tighten bolts from middle out. And in your write up you said to clean the screen on the oil pick up strainer, but in you pic you have a huge hole next to the screen, so cleaning the screen wont do anything because it will just go through that huge hole.

 

Opinions follows:

There's no need to scrub the living snot outta the inside of the pan. Just give it a good rinse with a solvent and be done. There's little chance that the staining is going to do any harm to the engine, even if you go with a high detergent oil and it helps to clean the staining away. If the solvent doesn't completely remove it, then a high detergent oil likely won't either. This step represents a huge chunk of time which IMO is unnecessary.

When you have the pan off, take the time to check that the gasket/sealing surface of the pan is flat. Use a straight edge along the surface and use a small hammer and block to bring down any high spots. Will go a long way to help keep the leaks to a minimum. The pan will get distorted by someone torquing the hardware too tight.

Next oil change I really need to re-do my pan. Someone in the past used lots of orange RTV on mine - don't know if there's a factory gasket there or not. It's leaking bad enough that the time has come.

 

Yes I did say to clean up the pickup, however that's no hole! Note exactly sure what it was, but I just scraped it off. Just an effect of the camera, angle and the lighting.

 

Guess it dosent have to be cleaned but I had the time and the audacity to get it done. I like my rover and in my eyes... Every little thing matters. So taking extra time cleaning out the pan for my rover was a delight... Especially the end result.

 

1 rule of thumb when fitting on boltss and nuts on the oil pan... Do not over tighten them! I made a big mistake when installing the pan and new gasket, I over tightened all the bolts and nuts thus destroying the new gasket and probably warring the pan contact area. Had to make a emergency stop at autozone last night to get some rvc black and new oil. Had to remove the pan and install rvc under and above the gasket before refitting it to the engine. Still leaks but hopefully everything will hold until I get a new gasket. Also bought a second bottle of rvc so when I get the new gasket ill be prepared. What I need now is help figuring out how to tighten the bolts and nights just right. If you don't tighten them enough they leak and obviously as I learned the hard way, if you over tighten them the pan leaks as well. I used a simple racket wrench for the tightening so Im clueless as to the proper method of fitting the bolts and nuts.

 

Kamileon already provided to you the proper torque setting: 25Nm which equals 18.44 ft-lbs or 221.27 in-lbs (depending on which torque wrench you have). If you haven't developed a sense of how much torque you're applying, then get a torque wrench. You'll find 18 ft-lbs isn't very much.

I don't recommend using silicone with cork gaskets. But, I do like Permatex 2B with a cork gasket for places where the seal is NOT submerged in the lubricant, say on an oil pan cork gasket or valve cover cork gasket. If you don't over-torque, the cork gasket doesn't get squeezed out or damaged. LeakyDisco asked if Hylomar Blue would be good to use - I'd say yes. Same logic as me using Permatex 2B. Hylomar is not a silicone sealant, but a non-hardening gasket dressing.

 

Good job,

Maybe we could see a step by step transfere case service and oil change.

 

If you are just draining and refilling it is really simple once you learn where everything is and spend some time under the vehicle on a creeper with a good light.

Make sure the fill plug will loosen before draining the existing fluid out though.

Sounds like our other new friend use the "Gootentite Principle" Tightening until complete deformation occurs.

Buy yourself a good torque wrench my new LR Converts and learn how to use it so you do not overtighten, deform, crush, strip, or break fasteners.

Study the callout in the RAVE and know what you are up against prior to jumping in without knowing "The depth of the WATER and the underlying obstacles". Less costly method of maintenance with less emergency purchases in between repairs.

 

Any chance those pictures still available from your post? All I see is icons where the original pictures were. Thanks in advance...

 

Mine had no gasket,iirc you are supposed to glue the plan with hylomar? I put back no gasket just clean and use quality rTV like permatex right stuff you can put oil in and go, other rtv needs 24 hour cure