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  #21  
Old 06-29-2010, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
Not necessarily, once the oil gets hot and thins out if the valves are sticky (gummed up you call it) then the lower oil pressure will not give the lifters the power needed to open the valves correctly.

It could be a electrical issue but there is no ignition module on this truck, it has electronic ignition.

It could be a bad fuel temp sensor but then you would get a code for that and it would not backfire.

You need good plug wires not el' cheapo Duralast ones.
Magnecor are the prefered plug wire and STI are a very close second.
All other wires will not last for crap on these trucks.
7mm is the stock thickness for the plug wires.

The DI sparks on both the exhaust and compression strokes.
i was planning to going with better tune up stuff. the last owner did the tune up. i was also planning to go with rotella 15-40 oil. i don't know what is in it right now.
aslo where is the fuel temp sensor located on it?

has any one ever herd of the coils going bad? if it is electronic im narrowing it down to them or the ecu.
it is definitely ignition related. fuel pressure is fine even when it is not starting. and i'll test all 8 plug wires with a timing light and it's a hit or miss with all of them
 
  #22  
Old 06-30-2010, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
The DI sparks on both the exhaust and compression strokes.

I was completely unaware of this fact.
 
  #23  
Old 06-30-2010, 07:43 PM
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If you have only had it a short while, and you have no background info like receipts and stuff, you pretty much have to go on the assumption that all the major maintenance is overdue and do the 60 K tune-up on the DII page ( a sticky).

Use quality parts, and download the RAVE manual if you have not already.

Take a look at both Atlantic British and Rovers North websites for a good source for Land Rover Parts and support info as ell as the guys here.

Welcome to the World Of Rover OwnerShip.

Hope you have lots of patience and perserverance.
 
  #24  
Old 06-30-2010, 09:20 PM
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The fuel temp sensor is on the front drivers side of the fuel rail.

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3...p-v-8-efi.aspx

Its cheaper at www.atlanticbritish.com

But thats not your problem, you need new plugs and wires.
 
  #25  
Old 06-30-2010, 10:35 PM
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ok,
i have played with it all day in deed it was fuel related. after hours of poking it with a dvm multi meter come to the conclusion that there is no ground signal to the fuel pump relay.
YES my relay is GOOD i cut it open and tested it and looked for cold solder joints. its actually 3 relays in one box. i know the ECM gives the ground signal to the relay, BUT there is something else between the ECU and the relay. one thing i don't know for sure is what the fuel temp sensor dose. what the reason for it is. never seen one on a car before.
 
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
I was completely unaware of this fact.
any thing with one coil per 2 cyl is like that with a DIS FYI
 
  #27  
Old 07-02-2010, 10:30 PM
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So you still have not gotten it resolved?
 
  #28  
Old 07-03-2010, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
So you still have not gotten it resolved?
still working on it right now i have added a ground to the fuel pump relay. hasn't messed up yet. but the fuel pump will stay on when the key is on, so it's a temporary fix. i.m still trying to figure out what grounds the relay to turn it on and off. i know the ECU commands it but i think there is some thing between the ECU and the relay.
 
  #29  
Old 07-03-2010, 03:18 PM
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The fuel temp sensor lets the ECU know how well the fuel will atomize by the temp of it, hot fuel will just turn to vapor, cold fuel will be more dense.
From what I understand it only works while starting but I may be wrong.
 
  #30  
Old 07-03-2010, 05:58 PM
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Have you read the RAVE for a detailed theory of operation explanation? That is where I have found a detailed explanation for that level of detail.
 


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