high idle
#11
02-10-2011, 07:02 PM
I have too much experience with this..
Its either....
IACV
TPS
or...
ECU..
You can rule out the TPS with a scangauge or something that can show you live data. If you dont have anything to show you this. you can check the ohms with it in different positions. However I totally forgot the value.
I think there are two different types of IACVs I know for a fact you can not worry about moving the pluger itll be fine..
Try cleaning it, but if its dirty it would restrict flow and computer would tell it to open up. But if it was stuck computer cant open it up and it would MOST LIKELY give you a fault.
It should close at every shut off.
And finally, I had a bad ecu... If you get a new ecu make sure you get the matching security ecu with it.
The TPS is 90$ at autozone
The IACV is 45$ at advanced
The ecu can be found at junk yards..
A shop can reset the adaptive value for the ECU and it'll probably cost you 90$ but if your ecu is bad it will go back to how it was. Ask me how I know..
look for a thread by me it should have alot of information that I can't remember..
Its either....
IACV
TPS
or...
ECU..
You can rule out the TPS with a scangauge or something that can show you live data. If you dont have anything to show you this. you can check the ohms with it in different positions. However I totally forgot the value.
I think there are two different types of IACVs I know for a fact you can not worry about moving the pluger itll be fine..
Try cleaning it, but if its dirty it would restrict flow and computer would tell it to open up. But if it was stuck computer cant open it up and it would MOST LIKELY give you a fault.
It should close at every shut off.
And finally, I had a bad ecu... If you get a new ecu make sure you get the matching security ecu with it.
The TPS is 90$ at autozone
The IACV is 45$ at advanced
The ecu can be found at junk yards..
A shop can reset the adaptive value for the ECU and it'll probably cost you 90$ but if your ecu is bad it will go back to how it was. Ask me how I know..
look for a thread by me it should have alot of information that I can't remember..
#12
02-10-2011, 07:45 PM
#13
02-10-2011, 07:52 PM
#14
02-10-2011, 08:17 PM
I was just wondering, when mine went bad I searched and searched for a test method, but was told that because it is basically an electric motor moving the plunger there was no reliable test method other than being able to read it's postition in real-time to see if it moves.
#15
02-10-2011, 10:21 PM
I was just wondering, when mine went bad I searched and searched for a test method, but was told that because it is basically an electric motor moving the plunger there was no reliable test method other than being able to read it's postition in real-time to see if it moves.
#16
02-10-2011, 11:20 PM
Pro Wrench
I remember one redneck test would be to unplug iacv turn key on and plug it in then turn off the key and unplug the iacv and repeat to drive it closed. I don't think you had to actually start the vehicle. It was something Like this. And all it really proved was that your iacv was bad, not too bad because it would move alittle bit if it's too bad it won't move at all. I know basically useless
#17
02-11-2011, 12:47 PM
Winching
#18
02-11-2011, 12:55 PM
i had the exact same symptoms. wasn't the stepper motor (idle air control valve) it was that my throttle blade inside the throttle body was not closing totally. it looked like it was and i used a bunch of carb cleaner in there, but there was always a small gap letting too much air through.
#19
02-11-2011, 09:07 PM
i had the exact same symptoms. wasn't the stepper motor (idle air control valve) it was that my throttle blade inside the throttle body was not closing totally. it looked like it was and i used a bunch of carb cleaner in there, but there was always a small gap letting too much air through.
#20
02-17-2011, 02:22 PM