Just to check and see, have you tried working the throttle linkage by hand with the hood open, even if you have to have someone else start it up, or just reach in and do it. My c/c linkage and throttle linkage were pretty nasty and I had problems with WOT at one time. I( ended up removing c/c totally and finessing the throttle linkage.

There is an adjustment on the linkage that is stated is not intended to be a throttle adjustment, but in reality it will raise and lower the throttle or idle by tightening or loosening. It sorta defeats the ECM and zero point for IACV but when mine was acting up, I found it did indeed allow YOU to raise/lower idle. Proceed at your own risk. But like my crazy brother Charles once told a cop that was letting us continue on I-75 thru NC when they had closed it for three inches of snow,
"Hell we do that every time we go anywhere!"

The spray adhesive with the headliner may give a slight reprieve but that usually is hit or miss with a lot more misses than hits. There are threads on here about redoing it.

 

It's called the base idle setting, under a tamper-proof seat. T4 needed. IT WILL EFFECT HOW THE MOTOR DECELERATES. Ask me how I know. I would not mess with it as it will have detrimental effect on how the vehicle operates and if your not familiar with how it will accelerate to the point where you'll have one helluva time trying to stop the vehicle as the idle speed will hit 2k+ while trying to overcome the brakes then don't mess with it. Fun as hell in close traffic.

You can adjust the throttle speed by turning the twist lock on the throttle cable. That is the safe way. The surest method is by getting the variables reset and don't mess with **** you don't know about.

 

This is what I was referring to as well!

If you do have a dealership nearby, call them and ask about getting them to reset your ECU with the Testbook.

 

You might have a bad crank shaft sensor.

 

Resolution! Just wanted to share with the group what finally resolved my stall problem. The problem ended up being the TPS. Once I changed the TPS the engine began to accelerate like it should with no dead spots or any hesitation. One more off the list (big one). Now onto installing the rear sunroof frame that we just took off a PAP car and reflowing the rear window ECU. Thanks everyone for your input.

 

Were you able to change the TPS without a hook-up at the dealer or an indy LR mechanic to reset the ECM?

 

with a sensor like tps it should just be change it and clear the code

 

gents - just as a follow up I have changed both the TPS and the IACV and the idle will not reset itself. I'm off to finding a Indy shop that can use the testbook program to reset all my base line. Unfortunately this is becoming harder than I ever expected. Two shops I call dont support the software for the D1 and another has no idea what I was talking about when I tried to explain what I wanted. The search continues and if all else fails I'll drive the 90 +- miles to get and take it to a "official" LR shop.