I'm scared to ask??
#22
08-18-2011, 08:08 PM
Super Moderator
In the Discovery 1 Workshop manual, under Lubricants, Fluids, and Capacities; 20W50 is listed as usable from 0 degrees C to 55 degrees C, that's around 130 degrees F. Now we don't find that temp in the US, but in most major cities we have traffic jams that will have you poking along on a hot afternoon. And the temp under the hood is certainly over 100 degrees F. Maybe close to 110 - 115.
So if that viscosity is good enough for LR, it is OK by me. By the way, it is an accepted viscosity for Mercedes Benz petrol engines like my 300 series, and they have been making engines for a while.
As to "diesel" weight, IMHO the diesel descriptor indicates that the oil is formulated for the extra cleaning and soot suspension that is needed in diesel engines. The combustion by-products need to stay in suspension so they can be removed by the filter. I've read that Rotella has five times the cleaning level of conventonal oil.
The 15W40 is also listed by Land Rover for use down to 32 degrees, and below that you can go to 10W40 (to 14 degrees F), and below that the 5W oils come into use.
Just going by the engineered specifications published by the factory for use by technicians around the world.
So if that viscosity is good enough for LR, it is OK by me. By the way, it is an accepted viscosity for Mercedes Benz petrol engines like my 300 series, and they have been making engines for a while.
As to "diesel" weight, IMHO the diesel descriptor indicates that the oil is formulated for the extra cleaning and soot suspension that is needed in diesel engines. The combustion by-products need to stay in suspension so they can be removed by the filter. I've read that Rotella has five times the cleaning level of conventonal oil.
The 15W40 is also listed by Land Rover for use down to 32 degrees, and below that you can go to 10W40 (to 14 degrees F), and below that the 5W oils come into use.
Just going by the engineered specifications published by the factory for use by technicians around the world.
#23
08-18-2011, 08:41 PM
This is absolutely wrong, just because it is a diesel oil means nothing, that just means it is a heavy duty oil and it is rated for gas and diesel engines.
In Australia they use a 20w-70 motor oil in the hot places.
Read your owners manual, it will list oil from 5w-40 all the way upto 20w-60 as fine to use in your DI.
For Newport Beach CA Rotella 15w-40 with 5,000 mile oil changes is perfect.
BUT you MUST CHECK YOUR OIL ONCE A WEEK!!!!
No if's and's or but's about it!!!
Get in the habit if checking it every Saturday morning before you go anywhere.
Park on a flat surface the night before, the next morning open the hood and pull the dipstick.
Do this ONCE A WEEK!!! And BEFORE you start the engine, checking the oil level after shutting the engine off can give you a false reading, checking it after it has sat all night will give you a exact reading.
I am betting that you were just low on oil because you did not check it often enough, just like Antichrist said.
As for the engine flush, dont worry about it, diesel oil is highly detergent and will clean your engine as you drive.
In Australia they use a 20w-70 motor oil in the hot places.
Read your owners manual, it will list oil from 5w-40 all the way upto 20w-60 as fine to use in your DI.
For Newport Beach CA Rotella 15w-40 with 5,000 mile oil changes is perfect.
BUT you MUST CHECK YOUR OIL ONCE A WEEK!!!!
No if's and's or but's about it!!!
Get in the habit if checking it every Saturday morning before you go anywhere.
Park on a flat surface the night before, the next morning open the hood and pull the dipstick.
Do this ONCE A WEEK!!! And BEFORE you start the engine, checking the oil level after shutting the engine off can give you a false reading, checking it after it has sat all night will give you a exact reading.
I am betting that you were just low on oil because you did not check it often enough, just like Antichrist said.
As for the engine flush, dont worry about it, diesel oil is highly detergent and will clean your engine as you drive.
#24
08-18-2011, 10:23 PM
Rock Crawling
This is absolutely wrong, just because it is a diesel oil means nothing, that just means it is a heavy duty oil and it is rated for gas and diesel engines.
MUST CHECK YOUR OIL ONCE A WEEK!!!!
No if's and's or but's about it!!!
Get in the habit if checking it every Saturday morning before you go anywhere.
Park on a flat surface the night before, the next morning open the hood and pull the dipstick.
Do this ONCE A WEEK!!! And BEFORE you start the engine, checking the oil level after shutting the engine off can give you a false reading, checking it after it has sat all night will give you a exact reading.
I am betting that you were just low on oil because you did not check it often enough, just like Antichrist said.
As for the engine flush, dont worry about it, diesel oil is highly detergent and will clean your engine as you drive.
MUST CHECK YOUR OIL ONCE A WEEK!!!!
No if's and's or but's about it!!!
Get in the habit if checking it every Saturday morning before you go anywhere.
Park on a flat surface the night before, the next morning open the hood and pull the dipstick.
Do this ONCE A WEEK!!! And BEFORE you start the engine, checking the oil level after shutting the engine off can give you a false reading, checking it after it has sat all night will give you a exact reading.
I am betting that you were just low on oil because you did not check it often enough, just like Antichrist said.
As for the engine flush, dont worry about it, diesel oil is highly detergent and will clean your engine as you drive.
every saturday before I trek to work, I check my oil, tire pressures and light operation. a very easy and good habit to get into.
a lamp "flicker" isn't as horrifying as a brightly light warning lamp staying lit.
#25
08-19-2011, 04:50 AM
Baja
#26
08-19-2011, 10:10 AM
Thank you all for the feedback. I looked under her last night, a little drip on the oil filter and on the oil pan. I am assuming with a tightening of both that should be fine. My coolant is normal. I checked the oil level after work last night and it still reads full and once again this morning, its all there still. But, the temp started to rise after driving around and sitting at a stoplight. So, this brings me to another problem. I am going to change my oil tomorrow with a flush as well as a flush of my coolant. My serpentine belt is normal, no extra play on the fan. Thinking water pump and thermostat change as well unless there is a way to test that out for failure? One of you said no seafoam but, every oil change I run a can thru my gas tank and every 6 months thru the throttle body to clean out the mess there, is this not advised? Can I use seafoam to flush out my oil as well and what about this product called "Restore," any of you have experience with it. I have always been told there is no need to supplement if its working right?
#27
08-19-2011, 10:22 AM
Rock Crawling
For oil education, go to BITOG (- Bob is the Oil Guy). HDEO vs. PCMO, etc. Those who've pointed out that Rotella is fine (and recommended) for our push rod engines are correct. The oil weight issue has been corrected as well - it depends on the ambient outside temperatures.
Oh, and under hood temperatures are likely up in the 200+ degrees area when idling at a standstill on a hot day.
Oh, and under hood temperatures are likely up in the 200+ degrees area when idling at a standstill on a hot day.
#28
08-19-2011, 11:09 AM
Super Moderator
wynhd:
At this point, stop tinkering with the oil. It is full, not leaking bad. Bigger problem is overheat, and that needs to be dealt with el pronto. Were this under my shade tree (where all work is conducted in field conditions, on the dirt) I would check the following on the cooling system:
1. Coolant jug full to seam. Cap on tight.
2. No obvious coolant leaks. No gurgling or water swishing around sounds from under dash (that could be air, or it could be combustion gas from a leaking head gasket).
3. With engine cold, try to spin radiator fan with your fingers (ENGINE OFF!). Should be stiff to turn, won't go but just a part of a full circle. When truck has warmed up, turn off engine again and repeat. It should be looser, but should still not turn a whole circle. When the fan clutch goes bad, the fluid inside is lost, and it turns easier and easier, mine was "free wheeling" when warm. If fan clutch is bad, there is a write up in the tech sticky for a $49 Chevy conversion. NOTE: The radiator fan blades are cupped, and the cupped side goes toward the engine. The fan makes no difference if you are going at road speed - don't believe me? Hold a pizza box out the window at 50 mph. I had a wobbly water pump, pulled the fan off to avoid having it go thru the hood, drove 30 miles home with no problem. A good working clutch will engage more when cold, making a "roar" of fan noise as more air is moving, my Chevy conversion moves enough air to spin the front AC fans even though they are not on. Noise and air flow drops when warmed up, comes back as air temp on front of fan clutch goes above 170 degrees (about 200 water temp).
4. Fans are one of ther top over heats at stop lights problem. Also, you can have trash trapped between the radiator and the AC condenser, slide out the rubbber strip an check. Also check for mud in the radiator fins, grass, gunk, lily pads, plastic trash bags, etc. My previous owner had wired replacement AC condenser fans backwards, and they made me overheat because they were trying to blow out the front. Anything that retricts air flow thru radiator reduces cooling, and may block warm air from bringing the fan clutch back on line.
5. Radiator - a good brass and copper one, but if well water or city water was used, calcium scale will build up inside. A small indy radiator shop will charge $50 - $65 to flush with heated acid and rod out (they unsolder the side tank) the tubes. Makes a whale of difference. You can try chemial flush at home, but i was only able to get 10% of the improvement that a trip to the shop produced.
6. Water pump - cheap to change, should not leak, grind, or wobble when turned. Be sure belt routing is correct - see tech sticky for a print out of belt route. Check belt first. Unless water pump shows bad, would not change until after radiator rod out. D1 and D2 interchange, I got one for $6 to try from a low miles squashed donor.
7. Thermostat - cheap, easy to replace, be sure it does not slide down under the gasket leaving an arc of a hole above it. Spring side goes in the block.
8. If you can, borrow a scanner that will read data , you cane see coolant temp. More accuarte than the guage. Gauge should not be above 9:00 normally, mine runs at 7:30 - 8:00 position.
9. Borrow/rent a coolant test kit from auto store, pump it up to 18 PSI, should hold for 15 minutes. Look for leaks. If engine is using coolant, and no leaks, look for white smoke. If found, start think HG. But there are chemical tests for that, so don't go buy $300 worth of parts.
I'm hoping just fan clutch and rad rod out.
At this point, stop tinkering with the oil. It is full, not leaking bad. Bigger problem is overheat, and that needs to be dealt with el pronto. Were this under my shade tree (where all work is conducted in field conditions, on the dirt) I would check the following on the cooling system:
1. Coolant jug full to seam. Cap on tight.
2. No obvious coolant leaks. No gurgling or water swishing around sounds from under dash (that could be air, or it could be combustion gas from a leaking head gasket).
3. With engine cold, try to spin radiator fan with your fingers (ENGINE OFF!). Should be stiff to turn, won't go but just a part of a full circle. When truck has warmed up, turn off engine again and repeat. It should be looser, but should still not turn a whole circle. When the fan clutch goes bad, the fluid inside is lost, and it turns easier and easier, mine was "free wheeling" when warm. If fan clutch is bad, there is a write up in the tech sticky for a $49 Chevy conversion. NOTE: The radiator fan blades are cupped, and the cupped side goes toward the engine. The fan makes no difference if you are going at road speed - don't believe me? Hold a pizza box out the window at 50 mph. I had a wobbly water pump, pulled the fan off to avoid having it go thru the hood, drove 30 miles home with no problem. A good working clutch will engage more when cold, making a "roar" of fan noise as more air is moving, my Chevy conversion moves enough air to spin the front AC fans even though they are not on. Noise and air flow drops when warmed up, comes back as air temp on front of fan clutch goes above 170 degrees (about 200 water temp).
4. Fans are one of ther top over heats at stop lights problem. Also, you can have trash trapped between the radiator and the AC condenser, slide out the rubbber strip an check. Also check for mud in the radiator fins, grass, gunk, lily pads, plastic trash bags, etc. My previous owner had wired replacement AC condenser fans backwards, and they made me overheat because they were trying to blow out the front. Anything that retricts air flow thru radiator reduces cooling, and may block warm air from bringing the fan clutch back on line.
5. Radiator - a good brass and copper one, but if well water or city water was used, calcium scale will build up inside. A small indy radiator shop will charge $50 - $65 to flush with heated acid and rod out (they unsolder the side tank) the tubes. Makes a whale of difference. You can try chemial flush at home, but i was only able to get 10% of the improvement that a trip to the shop produced.
6. Water pump - cheap to change, should not leak, grind, or wobble when turned. Be sure belt routing is correct - see tech sticky for a print out of belt route. Check belt first. Unless water pump shows bad, would not change until after radiator rod out. D1 and D2 interchange, I got one for $6 to try from a low miles squashed donor.
7. Thermostat - cheap, easy to replace, be sure it does not slide down under the gasket leaving an arc of a hole above it. Spring side goes in the block.
8. If you can, borrow a scanner that will read data , you cane see coolant temp. More accuarte than the guage. Gauge should not be above 9:00 normally, mine runs at 7:30 - 8:00 position.
9. Borrow/rent a coolant test kit from auto store, pump it up to 18 PSI, should hold for 15 minutes. Look for leaks. If engine is using coolant, and no leaks, look for white smoke. If found, start think HG. But there are chemical tests for that, so don't go buy $300 worth of parts.
I'm hoping just fan clutch and rad rod out.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 08-19-2011 at 11:11 AM.
#29
08-19-2011, 12:08 PM
#30
08-19-2011, 12:20 PM
Super Moderator
Before you try the mechanic-in-a-jar products, please check back. Their effects can be short lived, and the cooling system can suffer.
Venting the cap causes gurgling because engine is warm, coolant system is normally under pressure, and that reduces the boiling point of water. So your cap is holding pressure, which is good. Lucky you did not get burned. Try not to open that without a rag if it is warm.
I'm trying to get you not to warm up while at a light or idling. Where does your guage sit normally while driving at 30 - 50 mph? Where does it go when stopped at a light? At what point do you consider it "hot" or "overheating" or "getting hot"?
Reason I am asking - if low on oil, and overheating, oil thins. Lower PSI from pump turning at same rpm.
The no whooshing sound is a very good sign, puts head gasket way down the list of possibles (it is possible to have an external HG leak, which can be bad and even errode the aluminum block; you can also leak into a cyclinder, which will make white tail pipe smoke and steam clean the cylinder and spark plug).
Venting the cap causes gurgling because engine is warm, coolant system is normally under pressure, and that reduces the boiling point of water. So your cap is holding pressure, which is good. Lucky you did not get burned. Try not to open that without a rag if it is warm.
I'm trying to get you not to warm up while at a light or idling. Where does your guage sit normally while driving at 30 - 50 mph? Where does it go when stopped at a light? At what point do you consider it "hot" or "overheating" or "getting hot"?
Reason I am asking - if low on oil, and overheating, oil thins. Lower PSI from pump turning at same rpm.
The no whooshing sound is a very good sign, puts head gasket way down the list of possibles (it is possible to have an external HG leak, which can be bad and even errode the aluminum block; you can also leak into a cyclinder, which will make white tail pipe smoke and steam clean the cylinder and spark plug).