The new steering damper I installed. Ride is still rough, still not sure about tire rods and wheel bearings.

Front drivers side tire rod area?


Front drivers wheel bearing area


Part of the exhaust. Crappy welding job, there is an exhaust leak.


Not sure if this is another power steering hose or something else. Areas pretty moist due to power steering leak and possibly small leak in oil pan.


Forgot if this was front of rear passenger side wheel area.


Another angle of the rear driveshaft. Mind the duck tape.


Most importantly the rear axle. Let me know if you think it could be put on the 96.


Drivers side rear wheel area.


Passenger side wheel area








Transmission pan may need to be replaced, and the fasteners which hold it up.


Abs and Srs lights are on and need to be serviced. Check engine light goes on for acre days then goes off.

Those are the pics. Like I said the vehicle needs an alighnment as well. There is a cylinder 6 missfire and low compression in in one of the other cylinders. The least case scenario is the engine needs a new ignition coil/s. Worst case the engine needs need ignition pack, fuel injectors, headgasket kit, seals, valves etc. A engine rebuild basically. This is quoting from a mechanic at DAP Enterprise who performed the compression test. All that plus the rear driveshaft, power steering leak, new tires and maybe tire rods, alighnment, getting that rust hole serviced, getting the abs and Srs serviced, plus all the bodywork and interior. A lot of money as it stands. The diff high low is stuck as well. When going up hills a fair decrease in power is apparent (the missfire doesn't help matters). The headliner and headboard is missing. There is a leak in the rear sun roof. The smell of fuel is always apparent outside of the vehicle, but I've never found a leak on the ground to indicate a leak in the tank. A lot of work and a lot of money. You guys said the 96 was bad and to stay away from it, what about this one? I bought it off a guy right in town, was not taken care of at all. So far I've given it a tuneup, replaced the heater fan and motor with a used replacement, replaced the old damaged steering damper, bought new filters, fluids etc.

Please refer to my questions at the top of part 1 as that will help me best in my dilemma. I love this rover but I don't see an end to repairs anytime in the near future. No one wants to buy it and I don't know how to take my next step forward.

 

your ride could be tough because that might be a HD terrafirma shock and spring setup. your biggest concern should be the misfire and low compression in the engine. Then the leaks. if you are going to keep it then i would say its time to download the RAVE manual take a few days off work and get intimate with your truck. Once you have everything apart then you can find out exactly what is going on in your engine.

Land Rover Head Gasket Set - Complete Gasket Kit For Land Rover Vehicles
Gasket - Oil Pan | Land Rover Engine Parts at RoverParts.com


if you are throwing in the towel i would either part it out if you have the space or donate it to charity and write it off in you taxes.

 

Your misfire and low compression is because of sticky valves from engine sludge, thank the guy you bought it from for that.
The only way to clear that is going to be a engine flush with a can of engine flush, then drop the oil pan and clean up the oil pickup screen.
Then use a high detergant motor oil like diesel oil and change it every 500 miles until it starts to get better.
But this truck is not even drivable with that u-joint like that.

 

Your misfire and low compression is because of sticky valves from engine sludge, thank the guy you bought it from for that.
The only way to clear that is going to be a engine flush with a can of engine flush, then drop the oil pan and clean up the oil pickup screen.
Then use a high detergant motor oil like diesel oil and change it every 500 miles until it starts to get better.
But this truck is not even drivable with that u-joint like that.

 

Will try it. Now as mentioned in part 1, I've decided.not to get the 96, ill keep working on this one until I find a better disco. I'll get the engine rebuilt after I replace the rear driveshaft and ujoint. Aside from getting a complete ignition coil pack and rail, fuel injectors and rail, what else should I get for parts? New valves perhaps? Connecting rods, engine mounts, etc.

 

Why do you need new coils and fuel rail?

 

Well in the research I did, missfires can be associated with bad spark plugs, bad wires, bad ignition coils bad fuel injectors and worse. I'm going to take your recommendation regarding sludge on the valves, however I'm thinking I will need the engine partially rebuilt anyways while its open might as well replace what I can with my budget. Headgasket kit, all new valves, new ignition pack, new fuel injectors etc. Secondly I have a tendency to want to replace things. For example the rust hole. Instead of patching up the rust hole I plan on replacing the entire panel once I figure out the name or part number for it. But now my question is this: should the replacement fuel injectors be brand new? Or would putting in refurbished/remanufractured fuel injectors work just as good? I hear that new injectors are extremely pricey but I found a entire fuel injector set with rail for $130 plus shipping on eBay. Whole thing is remanufractured and supposedly fits my rover. I'm very tempted to get this in the near future but ill take some advice first.

 

You can replace all the coils and injectors and plugs and gaskets you want, but until you free up the sticky valve(s) your mis fire will continue.
When a intake or exhaust valve does not close completely you will get a mis fire and low compression on that cylinder.

 

As for the rust in the rear door's, you cant replace that body panel, that is the sub frame, the body panels bolt to it.
The body panels are aluminum, the sub frame is steel.
You will need a body shop to fix that rust correctly if you dont have any experience doing it.

 

Like I said, replacing all the valves would be on my to do list once the engine is opened. That way when all is said and done, I can start fresh with a new engine. As for the rust hole, that must be why the guy on here from west Virginia changed his mind about the trade. He's the one I met half way in allentown pa, in order to trade my disco for his Mazda miata. Big mistake I know, but I was desperate at the time and uncertain of the true potential of my rover. He's still on here with a post trying to trade the miata for a disco though lol. For the record no cat makes his car way way to dam loud! And the manual transmission may need to be serviced. Be careful! But he did give my $50 for good faith so hes got some honor and dignity!

I will worry about the hole later. I'll focus on the driveshaft then the poor engine.