Interesting Cooling Issue - would love to get thoughts.
#12
I should have stated that the distilled water with water wetter additive has better heat transfer than coolant/water. What is the limit here IMHO is how fast the radiator is getting rid of the heat. Adding coolant will make that slower.
At this stage, boiling point is not the issue. Radiator sludge or internal coating is suspect.
If you repeated the same driving route, in the late evening or night when it is much cooler.... the engine is pulling as hard, the water pump is spinning the same speed, the cooling fluid is the same, thermostat is the same, but if temp way different (lower) then cooler air over radiator is all that changed. To me that points at rad. Of course, the IR measure will tell the tale.
The orientation of the stat steam bleed hole could be an issue, and you may not have heard bubbles in the heater core because in early Disco's there is an on/off heat valve.
At this stage, boiling point is not the issue. Radiator sludge or internal coating is suspect.
If you repeated the same driving route, in the late evening or night when it is much cooler.... the engine is pulling as hard, the water pump is spinning the same speed, the cooling fluid is the same, thermostat is the same, but if temp way different (lower) then cooler air over radiator is all that changed. To me that points at rad. Of course, the IR measure will tell the tale.
The orientation of the stat steam bleed hole could be an issue, and you may not have heard bubbles in the heater core because in early Disco's there is an on/off heat valve.
#13
I assume you bought a Gasser,I would have looked for a diesel I have read comments how cool they run,
there is probly a reason the mech locked the fan clutch
Mixed coolant does heat slower and stabilizes temp easier then water plus increased boil temp
Not sure on the distilled water, wetter water is good but masking the problem
My opinion of the rover fan and clutch is trash,look for an s10 setup and cut 1" off each blade more blades better pitch more air flow
If you can see through the fins of Rad and condensor and have a "Saudi grill" and you are confident hg and wp were done correctly I would lean to new Rad or you are running too lean, timing off?
Ihscouts and buzz are both very knowledgeable hope you figure it out and let us know, carry lots of water desert is not a place to overheat and break down
there is probly a reason the mech locked the fan clutch
Mixed coolant does heat slower and stabilizes temp easier then water plus increased boil temp
Not sure on the distilled water, wetter water is good but masking the problem
My opinion of the rover fan and clutch is trash,look for an s10 setup and cut 1" off each blade more blades better pitch more air flow
If you can see through the fins of Rad and condensor and have a "Saudi grill" and you are confident hg and wp were done correctly I would lean to new Rad or you are running too lean, timing off?
Ihscouts and buzz are both very knowledgeable hope you figure it out and let us know, carry lots of water desert is not a place to overheat and break down
I'll check the timing, I will say lately I think I am running rich ( I smell gas sometimes ) but I need to double check this. I am pretty confident with the work on the head gasket and the WP but it's worth looking into for sure. I'll keep you guys posted. It's a national holiday here now so hard to get a hold of parts.
As far as the coolant I haven't seen water wetter here but I'll look around. I'll probably end up doing distilled and regular coolant and see how it goes. It's quite normal in Egypt for folks to fill their radiators with the garden hose which makes me laugh esp when their radiators are full of rust etc.
#14
#15
At this stage, boiling point is not the issue. Radiator sludge or internal coating is suspect.
If you repeated the same driving route, in the late evening or night when it is much cooler.... the engine is pulling as hard, the water pump is spinning the same speed, the cooling fluid is the same, thermostat is the same, but if temp way different (lower) then cooler air over radiator is all that changed. To me that points at rad. Of course, the IR measure will tell the tale.
The orientation of the stat steam bleed hole could be an issue, and you may not have heard bubbles in the heater core because in early Disco's there is an on/off heat valve.
Gonna pick up an IR thermo tomorrow, hopefully the simple one the local radio shack sells will do the trick...
#16
My Glowshift Water Temp and Voltmeter
Thought i would share my water temp gauge install. I think I am going to have to purchase a pod of some type and move it up to the top of the dash. For now I can peek at it without taking my eyes off the road for too long.
The 2nd picture is just to show how darn hot it's been here this summer.
The 2nd picture is just to show how darn hot it's been here this summer.
#17
#19
Can I find the overflow line in the RAVE manual or can you point me in the right direction? I'd like to try this, the paper towel test and the IR thermo test today.
#20
On the D1 the vent is actually just from the cap, so take colored paper towel, like blue, etc., and zip tie all around the coolant cap. In your heat, the small leak might be dried up quickly. Litmus paper works, many electronic devices have a piece inside to detect immersion during the warranty period.
As for cooling system booster, the water wetter is a glycol ether mix, with this data from their MSDS listing:
I would be surprised if someone has not recognized the sales potential of such a product in Egypt. Check auto parts stores and truck stops. Maybe a different brand name.
In the US and other places, race cars are not allowed to run antifreeze coolant, because a spill or venting makes the track slippery. So they use the water wetter products and distilled water.
As for cooling system booster, the water wetter is a glycol ether mix, with this data from their MSDS listing:
DiIsopropyl Alcohol Ether 1-40% CAS #25265-71-8
Tri Isopropyl Alcohol DiEther 1-40% CAS #24800-44-0
Sodium Molybdate 2-10% CAS #10102-40-6
Tolyltriazole 1-3% CAS #29385-43-1
PolySiloxane PolymerTri Isopropyl Alcohol DiEther 1-40% CAS #24800-44-0
Sodium Molybdate 2-10% CAS #10102-40-6
Tolyltriazole 1-3% CAS #29385-43-1
I would be surprised if someone has not recognized the sales potential of such a product in Egypt. Check auto parts stores and truck stops. Maybe a different brand name.
In the US and other places, race cars are not allowed to run antifreeze coolant, because a spill or venting makes the track slippery. So they use the water wetter products and distilled water.