Yes she's up and running again folks. After an all-day thrash I got it running late this afternoon. Of course there is no exhaust so that makes it very loud and I'm sure it's not happy without the O2 sensors either (check Eng Lt on now).

But the good news is it runs like a champ (with a little surging sometimes, again O2 sensors?) with no runs, no drips and for now...no errors!

Now all required to make it driveable is exhaust and replacement of a brake line. I need a left rear (driver's) brake line as this one is completely pinched-off from the broken exhaust hanging down and riding on it. The only replacements I've seen are $100 bucks and that's just too much to spend on luxuries like brakes! Now heat, that's an entirely different matter. Oh I need to get the brake lights figured out too.

You won't believe that the power steering pump, once hooked back up and topped-off, is functioning again and without any leaks...crazy! I don't know if the fitting just backed out and fell off or what but everything is tight now and steering works pretty well. It's a bit heavy and jerky but that's getting better as the system runs and bleeds itself.

I was a tad worried that the t-stat took a while to open but it finally did. I'm wondering if my lack of heat could be the valve or no water in the heater core (see other post on valve). I tried burping the system but it makes too much of a mess in the shop (basement) to let it run long enough for a proper test. I hope to get it outside this weekend and let it run for a while. While on the subject of cooling note the upper rad hose. That needs to be addressed too as there is just barely anything holding all the various pieces together. I'm sure that hose is expensive or hard to find as this unique solution the PO came up with attests to (see pics in second post).

Note the fancy MSD plug wires. They were left over from another project. They are a little long but seem to work just fine. I need to work on the routing and securing them better. Of course they don't fit into the stock looms as they are an 8.5 mm wire. Nothing that a rat-tail file can't fix though!

Overall I'm super excited as is my son. I let him turn the key and fire it up for the first time (again). He thought it was great fun and I was able to watch for leaks, fires, floods, etc.

I didn't take a lot of photos but here are a few...

 

And a few more...

 

WOW!!!! Bet they heard your cheers in Hungry Horse!

Could be valve, when warmed up if you can feel or IR each side can see if valve is open. Both feed and return hose should be warm. Of course, heater core could be plugged up all by itself, can try reverse flush. If core is trash, might consider an after market camper or cab heater, you plumb them and connect 12 volts for their built in fan.

Also, coolant would need to be full for everything to work. As to top hose, as long as it fits, does not kink, and clears the belts - who cares if it says "Land Rover" on it?

Here's pix of a method to bypass heater core.

 

Look for a red LED display under the passenger seat. It's on top of another black box. It will just have numbers on it. That is your ECU and OBD display. Here's a couple of links with codes; Land Rover Troubleshooting: retrieving fault codes
;http://www.troublecodes.net/landrvr/

Have you checked the water valve, the vacuum line, two micro-switches, control cables? Did the temp gauge move off the bottom when you let it run? You can move the valve flap by hand if you think it's sticking. Considering the motor puked two freeze plugs I can only imagine what might have happened to the valve.....

Surging might be a couple of things besides the O2's. You have vacuum advance to think about and idle air control solenoid that might do that on top of the oxy sensors. If you have the code window that could help pinpoint the sensor(s) needing attention besides what you already know.

 

If I don't have any more success with the heat I will need to track down all those leads. My son said he thought it was starting to get warm when we shut it down. Oh, the temp gauge was sitting right at 0900.

I need to get into the RAVE and look at the wiring on the big temp sensor that fits into the t-stat housing. Most everything I took apart like that (wiring) only went back together one way. The two-prong connector in this case fits on in either direction. Maybe it just doesn't matter?

Re the rad hose, yes it works but man it's close. Essentially all the hose clamps are pinched down on material just the width of the clamp itself. If I can find a longer pipe section that will work also. I just don't trust it as is.

Re the brake line the NAPA guys said if I can get the old one off they can match up the approx length and all I have to do is bend it to fit. They have sections of line with fittings already attached. I may try that route. None of the salvage guys want to take one off and send it due to liability reasons.

 

Doesn't matter which way the plug goes on, it would be keyed if it did. I was curious and looked it up in the Rave, no mention. Just measures resistance either way.

Seeing as the gauge is reading up to temp you should have plenty of heat coming into the cabin.

A brake shop would be able to patch you up. If it was next door to an exhaust shop you'd be in heaven.....

 

As for the heat, make sure the vac lines going to the valve on the heater hoses are intact.

 

Sensor in question may be one (switch) to turn on AC condenser electric fan. You could short pins to be sure. See attached. Black/purple, and black wires?

Brake lines should be cake walk compared to stuff so far.

Could jump out heat valve with a couple of pieces of pipe and hose clamps, to get heat on. D2's don't even have a valve, they run hot coolant to heater core all the time, and use vent flaps to control.

 

That's what I'm thinking IH. It shouldn't matter as it's probably the 'dumbest' sensor of all!

Funny, the shop I'm going t for exhaust does brake work too. Maybe I'll talk with them on Monday when I set my appt up.

I like the idea of bypassing the valve if needed although I believe it's working properly in the respect that it requires vacuum to close the valve. My (2000) F250 is as mentioned with the coolant continuously circulating through the HC. In fact, they make a kit to install a valve so you can control it. Supposed to make your A/C more efficient. That's not too much of a concern here though!

 

Old School in the 60's - put a valve on the heater water line at the fire wall to keep hot water out of the passenger compartment - we wuz 2 cheep to buy AC - had the 260 version - roll down two windows and go sixty...

For your heater core, if can't be made to work, Flex-A-Lite Mojave Heaters - JCWhitney

Reason you might want to consider that - see https://landroverforums.com/forum/ra...ent-pix-45479/