Just baught a 1994: good price, few small annoyances
#1
07-08-2011, 03:28 PM
Just baught a 1994: good price, few small annoyances
I've just baught a 1994 LR disco with 145k miles about a month ago, for next to nothing, with only a few minor issues. It is my first landrover and only old 4x4 so I would appreciate any advice or input, I have been searching these forums for a while now and have a little know-how but not much.
There is an exhaust leak in the front passenger side, which I have gathered is probably a crack in the exhaust manifold.
Check Engine Light: Code 45 o2 sensors. I've heard that this code can spit out at a number of things so any advice would be well appreciated.
Service Engine Light: Honestly dont know what it means?
ABS Light: Comes on and off randomly. Dont know what to make of that either.
SRS Light (lots of lights I know!): Never turns off like it should.
Overheats slowly with A/C on only. I checked and the 2 fans in the front do turn on with the A/C. think I may need my radiator rodded?
Very poor acceleration, and if i try to push it too hard it will cut out completely and I have to let off the gas pedal and back on and it will bring right back up to a slow and steady speed
Once the engine cut out completely at a stop light, had to pull the key out but it fired right back up and took off fine.
Worse-than-normal mpg averaging at 9-10.
Has some smell after I drive on the highway to and from work (about 15 miles, 30-40 minutes both ways) It doesn't smell like any burning fluids, and I dont detect any leaks, just smells like hot old car (reminds me of my dad's '84 jeep wagoneer smell if that helps?)
The truck drives fine, slow and steady and cant use the A/C after about 15 minutes in the Texas heat without my temp guage rising quick. Diff lock works perfect high and low, rear suroof doesnt work but I dont care much.
I have already had to repair a small coolant leak caused by a cracked heater valve. Replaced it and all the heater core hoses attached to it.
I already plan on doing the following:
oil change
new air filter
new gas filter
Flushed and refilled coolant (from the hose and valve repair)
Buy MAF cleaner and clean MAF sensor: Can someone explain where this is located please?
New T-Stat: again don't know where it is located
New Collant Temp Sensor: lol no idea where this is.
New ngk plugs and 8mm magnacor wires
I am very new to doing anything more than an oil change or tire rotation on a vehicle, so ANY suggestions or help would be awesome!
There is an exhaust leak in the front passenger side, which I have gathered is probably a crack in the exhaust manifold.
Check Engine Light: Code 45 o2 sensors. I've heard that this code can spit out at a number of things so any advice would be well appreciated.
Service Engine Light: Honestly dont know what it means?
ABS Light: Comes on and off randomly. Dont know what to make of that either.
SRS Light (lots of lights I know!): Never turns off like it should.
Overheats slowly with A/C on only. I checked and the 2 fans in the front do turn on with the A/C. think I may need my radiator rodded?
Very poor acceleration, and if i try to push it too hard it will cut out completely and I have to let off the gas pedal and back on and it will bring right back up to a slow and steady speed
Once the engine cut out completely at a stop light, had to pull the key out but it fired right back up and took off fine.
Worse-than-normal mpg averaging at 9-10.
Has some smell after I drive on the highway to and from work (about 15 miles, 30-40 minutes both ways) It doesn't smell like any burning fluids, and I dont detect any leaks, just smells like hot old car (reminds me of my dad's '84 jeep wagoneer smell if that helps?)
The truck drives fine, slow and steady and cant use the A/C after about 15 minutes in the Texas heat without my temp guage rising quick. Diff lock works perfect high and low, rear suroof doesnt work but I dont care much.
I have already had to repair a small coolant leak caused by a cracked heater valve. Replaced it and all the heater core hoses attached to it.
I already plan on doing the following:
oil change
new air filter
new gas filter
Flushed and refilled coolant (from the hose and valve repair)
Buy MAF cleaner and clean MAF sensor: Can someone explain where this is located please?
New T-Stat: again don't know where it is located
New Collant Temp Sensor: lol no idea where this is.
New ngk plugs and 8mm magnacor wires
I am very new to doing anything more than an oil change or tire rotation on a vehicle, so ANY suggestions or help would be awesome!
Last edited by huntermcc; 07-08-2011 at 03:38 PM.
#2
07-08-2011, 03:32 PM
I think the Service Engine Light is just a mile-check-light. Basically it turns on every 3000 miles or so so you know when to change your oil or get a 30k tune up etc. I think you can reset it somehow?
ABS light is always on.. some people say remove it some say check your speed sensors etc and fix it. IMO it's much cheaper and less time and frustration to take out the ABS fuses and take out the bulb on the HUD.
ABS light is always on.. some people say remove it some say check your speed sensors etc and fix it. IMO it's much cheaper and less time and frustration to take out the ABS fuses and take out the bulb on the HUD.
#5
07-08-2011, 04:01 PM
#6
07-08-2011, 04:45 PM
Where to begin. the SEL light caleb is mostly right about, def not every three thousand miles, but at service intervals. 60k 120k etc. theres a box behind the passenger kick panel with a land rover sticker on it. Stick a pin through the sticker and hit the contacts behind the sticker to reset the light.
The slow acceleration/cutting out, clean the throttle body (also in the tech section). plugs and wires will help.
o2 sensors, wait until you go after the exhaust manifold before you worry about them, one step at a time. you could be getting bad o2 codes because of the ingress of air at the header. Dont replace parts you dont have to.
Pull the abs fuse and forget about it. Except dont forget that you'll no longer have abs
Can't help you with the airbag light. airbags scare me, i wont go near, i feel like if i go near it with a screw driver it'll go off and plunge the screw driver into my chest steve irwin v sting ray style.
the overheating. So many possibilities. beofre you rod it, make sure the area between the Rad and the condenser and the engine is all free of debris, no leaves, no dirt, no mud. etc. however, DONT clean that out with a pressure washer or self serv car wash, it can be done, but i wont be responsible for telling you to do it because lots of people fry their whip that way. After that check flow. when it's warm and running do you have flow through the reservoir? tstat certainly wont hurt.
The majority of the problems you're having have all been fixed in previous threads. DEF DO THE 60 (120 if you can swing both) mile service.
now that you've done this, you now have a brand new, off roading machine that will never break (kidding) congrats.
Ive been drinking....again
The slow acceleration/cutting out, clean the throttle body (also in the tech section). plugs and wires will help.
o2 sensors, wait until you go after the exhaust manifold before you worry about them, one step at a time. you could be getting bad o2 codes because of the ingress of air at the header. Dont replace parts you dont have to.
Pull the abs fuse and forget about it. Except dont forget that you'll no longer have abs
Can't help you with the airbag light. airbags scare me, i wont go near, i feel like if i go near it with a screw driver it'll go off and plunge the screw driver into my chest steve irwin v sting ray style.
the overheating. So many possibilities. beofre you rod it, make sure the area between the Rad and the condenser and the engine is all free of debris, no leaves, no dirt, no mud. etc. however, DONT clean that out with a pressure washer or self serv car wash, it can be done, but i wont be responsible for telling you to do it because lots of people fry their whip that way. After that check flow. when it's warm and running do you have flow through the reservoir? tstat certainly wont hurt.
The majority of the problems you're having have all been fixed in previous threads. DEF DO THE 60 (120 if you can swing both) mile service.
now that you've done this, you now have a brand new, off roading machine that will never break (kidding) congrats.
Ive been drinking....again
#7
07-08-2011, 05:19 PM
Where to begin. the SEL light caleb is mostly right about, def not every three thousand miles, but at service intervals. 60k 120k etc. theres a box behind the passenger kick panel with a land rover sticker on it. Stick a pin through the sticker and hit the contacts behind the sticker to reset the light.
The slow acceleration/cutting out, clean the throttle body (also in the tech section). plugs and wires will help.
o2 sensors, wait until you go after the exhaust manifold before you worry about them, one step at a time. you could be getting bad o2 codes because of the ingress of air at the header. Dont replace parts you dont have to.
Pull the abs fuse and forget about it. Except dont forget that you'll no longer have abs
Can't help you with the airbag light. airbags scare me, i wont go near, i feel like if i go near it with a screw driver it'll go off and plunge the screw driver into my chest steve irwin v sting ray style.
the overheating. So many possibilities. beofre you rod it, make sure the area between the Rad and the condenser and the engine is all free of debris, no leaves, no dirt, no mud. etc. however, DONT clean that out with a pressure washer or self serv car wash, it can be done, but i wont be responsible for telling you to do it because lots of people fry their whip that way. After that check flow. when it's warm and running do you have flow through the reservoir? tstat certainly wont hurt.
The majority of the problems you're having have all been fixed in previous threads. DEF DO THE 60 (120 if you can swing both) mile service.
now that you've done this, you now have a brand new, off roading machine that will never break (kidding) congrats.
Ive been drinking....again
The slow acceleration/cutting out, clean the throttle body (also in the tech section). plugs and wires will help.
o2 sensors, wait until you go after the exhaust manifold before you worry about them, one step at a time. you could be getting bad o2 codes because of the ingress of air at the header. Dont replace parts you dont have to.
Pull the abs fuse and forget about it. Except dont forget that you'll no longer have abs
Can't help you with the airbag light. airbags scare me, i wont go near, i feel like if i go near it with a screw driver it'll go off and plunge the screw driver into my chest steve irwin v sting ray style.
the overheating. So many possibilities. beofre you rod it, make sure the area between the Rad and the condenser and the engine is all free of debris, no leaves, no dirt, no mud. etc. however, DONT clean that out with a pressure washer or self serv car wash, it can be done, but i wont be responsible for telling you to do it because lots of people fry their whip that way. After that check flow. when it's warm and running do you have flow through the reservoir? tstat certainly wont hurt.
The majority of the problems you're having have all been fixed in previous threads. DEF DO THE 60 (120 if you can swing both) mile service.
now that you've done this, you now have a brand new, off roading machine that will never break (kidding) congrats.
Ive been drinking....again
I have tried to search these forums for those 60k and 120k tuneups, but found nothing, can you link me the thread with the tuneup information please?
#8
07-08-2011, 05:43 PM
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#9
07-08-2011, 06:27 PM
False, also a sticky in our section, thank you spike and OK disco
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-owners-36324/
also, as far as the stuttering, i forgot to mention, seafoam. A lot of people will say you're a murderer if you do an induction cleaning with it, but MOST people dont have an issue with dumping a can in your gas tank. YMMV.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-owners-36324/
also, as far as the stuttering, i forgot to mention, seafoam. A lot of people will say you're a murderer if you do an induction cleaning with it, but MOST people dont have an issue with dumping a can in your gas tank. YMMV.
Last edited by turf63; 07-08-2011 at 06:27 PM. Reason: because i cant spell false