This is Mike's list tweaked For D1's only so we can have our own in the tech section.

This list is for reference only. Proceed at your own risk. Consult RAVE for proper procedures. Where applicable, I have hotlinked the procedures to the sticky in the tech section. If something needs to be changed, let me know. There are parts available that are cheaper than what is listed. If you don't have the funds, do some research. These are just listed because they are proven to work. The main importance I will stress is the 8MM insulation on the plug wires. It is a must...



1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301 for high capacity. I use WIX or Napa gold. Anything but Fram...Your preference
1 Factory air filter others can be used on a D1, but paper is best..
7 Qts. of engine oil - check manual for capacity. This is only a reference.
2 feet of 3/16th vacuum tube
2 feet of 5/16th vacuum tube
12 Qts. of ATF High Mileage
7 Qts. of 80/90W synthetic gear oil, 85W/140 for HD use
3 Pints of synthetic DOT 4 Brake fluid
2 Gallons of regular green antifreeze for D1's (note D2's take Dexcool- do not use it unless you have totally converted. They do not mix!!)
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive (at your discretion...some like it, some don't)
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platinum Plus 4's, but factory plugs are fine.
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires .... again, 8MM
1 Serpentine belt
2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive one for induction, and one for the tank. I use BG44k in the tank and it works better.
1 T/Stat with gasket 88 degrees C
1 bottle of WaterWetter or Purple Ice (personal choice to use or not)
2 Rover 1 shot packages for swivel ***** available at the dealer or most Rover parts houses.
Hoses and belts, as necessary

60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased

Flush Brakes
Flush and change the power steering system with Dexron 3 ATF high mileage
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive, if you wish. It will only take about half. Repeat again next oil change. Drain and fill. The reason for twice is the inability to drain the torque converter. This will get you a majority of new fluid.
Change the coolant and t/stat
Clean the throttle body before changing the oil.
Do an induction cleaning ( Sea Foam) before changing the oil.
Now you can change the oil. Remember, you can only go 5K max on drains. No extended drains for all of the synthetics out there. I have done the analysis on mine at 150K on the ticker. They aren't tight enough.
Add fuel additive (Sea Foam or BG 44K) to Partial tank and fill it up all the way. Don't fill up again until you hit 1/4 tank. Don't go too low either. Running past 1/4 is hard on your fuel pump as it is cooled by fuel.
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change T-case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts. 3 on front shaft if you have a factory D1 shaft, 4 plus the centering ball if you have a D2 shaft. you will either have 3 on the rear (mid 97 to 99), or 2 if you have a rotoflex.
Drain and fill swivels. Not all swivels have drains. Check levels and condition of fluid. These things leak, so if they are down, add some from the one shots.
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.


Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.

 

I would not use engine flush in a himileage vehicle it will cause more problems down the road than good. Seafoam is a 50/50, it can foul plugs and destroy o2 sensors if introduced through the intake it's ok to put it in the gas tank.

 

What is the Rover 1 shot package?

 

can you clarify on the green and yellow? If I had not just bought all the stuff I might have been confused because I know when I first read it I was thinking "what..?"

 

Please please add that the bosch 3500 filter is a larger style filter and fits also. It is much cheaper and made by a good company (not Bosch)
Made by purelator

 

By "green" and "yellow" he means the color of the engine coolant.
You can use any engine coolant you want as long as it is aluminum safe.
Just stay away from Dex-Cool, even though it is aluminum safe it is corrosive and it will eat gaskets.
I do not recommend a engine flush.
I also do not recommend any trans/power steering/coolant additive.
Some DI's take 7 qts of engine oil. (check your owners manual)
Buy a NAPA (Wix) or Purolator oil filter and save yourself some money.
DI's take 3 gals of engine coolant.
I am also not a fan of full synthetic's but thats just me.

 

I also AM a fan if full synthetics. Why go 3,000m when you can go 5-10k?

 

Whoh kids, easy. I just copied Mike's list and just made sure that ps fluid wasn't used and no one added dexcool to their D1.. I am adjusting.

I will take out the flush and let people decide what kind of oil to use and what additives to put in.

 

Except that you cant, not unless you are using Royal Purple, Amsoil or the like.
Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, etc. are NOT true full synthetics anymore.
I use Rotella (which is a heavy duty oil) and I change it every 5,000 miles.

 

Flush is out. I just copied it over.

Seafoam is done before the plug swap, and I have never heard of it killing o2 sensors..