wire brush it and some lubricant in the ignition cylinder

 

Yeah, the key is a bit finnicky until you get used to it. Keeps my wife out of the truck, but not my daughters. Those big fuses feed the smaller fuses, including fuel pump. So, goes without saying to fix fuses first. After that, the fuel pump can be heard priming when the key is first turned ON (position II, not III). Listen for it in a quiet area. I think the ABS pump also does a short (loud) cycle when the key is turned initially if its fuse is active.

The ABS "copper" fuse has been removed from my trucks, to deal with unwanted ABS activations (like at the edge of a cliff, or in a parking lot). So maybe use the ABS Pump fuse as a spare. I have both on the shelf, and have not regretted disabling the ABS. Good to get hold of the Electrical Test Manual (ETM) with wiring diagrams. Really helps locate components and gives a good understanding of the power distribution.

At 50k miles, there shouldn't be anything to worry about with the engine mechanically. Just new fluids, and check all the hoses and vacuum tubes for cracks/leaks. Lubricate the drive shafts, check diffs and TC oil levels. Check rear drive flex donut (surface cracks are expected, but not something to fret about). Check steering linkages.

My '94 brake pedal went to the floor when I bought it, but would pump up to pressure. To fix, I only needed to do a brake job all around and top off/bleed the system.

Maybe check and clean electrical ground points, two inside, one near the battery, connections at the starter and alternator, and near the power steering fluid container to the head. Bad grounds are a consistent source of hard to diagnose problems. Usually simply takes disconnecting and wire brushing. A badly rusted fuse box near the driver's feet has also caused problems for some. Remove those foot well covers and clean and inspect, lots of wires and relays and modules there. Hope you ditched the 20 yo battery. Poor voltage messes with both the ECM and sensors. By the way, there is a fitting on the fuel rail right side where fuel pressure can be measured. Some have had the wires at the fuel pump rust out and overheat/melt. After getting that stuff sorted, then you get to dive into suspension and front hubs and such, if you like. Sorry about the bio-hazard, but the real problem there is potential electrical, chassis, and body rust.

 

Thank you so much!!’

 

So where can I buy the fuel pump wire harness, or do I need one? It looks great, but the fuel pump is only getting 2.75 volts to it, so I need to fix the issue with the harness before deciding to replace that pump, then on top of that I found a small fuel filter where someone said the regular would be and the line is broken, and I can’t find the other end of it, and the end I can find, looks like it runs to the filler tube right by the hatch where you put a gas nozzle. I can take a picture tomorrow if needed. This one will be a slow slow process. This entire vehicle is getting re done into an offroad vehicle, but done right, so it will last years and years.

 

Does anyone know where I can find a diagram of wires from the battery / fuse box all the way back to the fuel pump? I want to check to make sure I have voltage in the front before I start chasing wires. Because that’s my least favorite thing to do.

looked online but I only see ones with half the truck at a time, and it isn’t clear really where a wire turns into a fuse box and where they are all located? Because if so I’d check all the wires and fuse boxes for voltage.

 

Welcome to the forum. This will be a hoot given the mistreatment you describe. Nearly all the manuals you could ever want are in the Google drive linked in my signature. Download them and use them as you wish.

I'd start by figuring out what model year you have. The wheels say 1998, but the radio antenna says 1993-4. Use a VIN checker to figure it out. This era was the time Land Rover moved from a distributor (aka 14cux) to an electronic engine control system (aka GEMS). Post a picture of the engine bay and we'll be able to tell immediately.

Fuel filter is a must. Fuel pump is a maybe and you are correct in that you need to see 12V at the harness. Given the electrical butchering you have describe behind the dash, I hope you are proficient with a multimeter. Chasing wires is likely going to be huge task.

 

A couple points: That little device near the filler is probably a check-type valve that is for safety after an accident, not the main filter. The main fuel filter is just in front of the rear tire mounted on the outside of the chassis frame. Easier to get to by removing the tire. Fittings are probably all rusted, so use Kroil or such for long. Some folks cut the fittings off and use a clamp-on type filter replacement. There are kits for sale for that. Your main problem, though is probably electrical. Fix the power before worrying about the filter, which is a bit smaller than a can of pop.

The 2.75 volts you measured sounds like it could be from the fuel level gauge, not power to the pump. The LR diagrams are all in pieces like you described. Follow the little triangles with letters to the page number shown (kind of a pain, I know). Each model and year has it's own diagrams, so make sure you use the correct manual, because small details change over time, and engineers need jobs too! Slow and methodical is the best approach for wiring. Start at the ends for easier access, then only work to the middle if needed. The pump is only powered for a few seconds when the key is turned on, then gets continuous power only when the engine is running.

 

thank you so much! I love Land Rover folks. All love all the time. I got lucky with my D2. All the problems were mechanical, which I can fix. Unfortunately for me, wiring is my biggest Achilles heel. I’m awful with a multimeter lol. I’m going to update here in a second with pictures and more questions below. Thank you! I’ll download and print the manuals.

 

I thought so. Thank you so much! I’m gonna post updates below! And more questions.

 

So here is where I’m at.

I found the fuel filter, I’ve got a picture of it. The prongs on the fuel pump were bent. Straightened them out, still no priming action or noise at all. How do I identify if there is an inertia switch problem? Seems like this one’s plug has been replaced with 2 new blue wires.

here are the pics of the fuel filter, and whatever the hell else I found coming from the fuel neck overflow with a little filter on it, compliments to the dirt dobber that plugged it for me free of charge.

Also, what voltage should I see running across the big copper fuses. I’m getting 3.75V there and 2.75-3.25 at the fuel pump. I know I should probably replace them all. They are next. Need to figure out the fuel issue first because it will turn over and run on ether. So where should I check next with a multimeter? Thanks in advanced guys! Once I get this thing running, it will be turned into a beauty. Just gotta get her moving under her own power first.

Thanks in advanced. Yall rock