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Key won’t turn?

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  #31  
Old 10-09-2024 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by WaltNYC
When you order a new pump, you should look for the 'non-AEL' version. If your truck is a '96, it is an early one given the radio antenna on the front fender. Take a pic of the engine bay and post it. Hopefully you have a round canister near the coolant reservoir.

Soak the threads of the fuel filter with your favorite rust buster...PB Blaster, Kroil, etc. When you replace it, put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads and it will be quite easy to do next time.

Locate the inertia switch on the firewall (passenger side) and make sure you have electrical continuity across it. In a pinch, you can jump it.
Ok I will start there once I get the fuel pump. What is Non-AEL?

My vin is : SALJY1241TA168305

Says it’s a 96. How do I know if it’s an MFI or an SFI so I can start chasing fuel related electronics. Hard to tell a difference in the workshop manuals.

Thanks for all the help, seriously.
 
  #32  
Old 10-09-2024 | 09:33 AM
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I have never seen a topic go so off topic - key won't turn to fuel pumps - LOL
 
  #33  
Old 10-09-2024 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by disco96sd
I have never seen a topic go so off topic - key won't turn to fuel pumps - LOL
That was the very first issue to address. Instead of making a new post about every little thing, since I have the right people trying to help, there’s no reason to not just ask here.

We’re on the right track! 👍
 
  #34  
Old 10-09-2024 | 10:39 AM
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AEL = Advanced Evaporative Loss system, means charcoal canister system to deal with gas vapors from the tank, uses a rectangular shaped charcoal canister. AEL was a later update to the design (probably a response to regulations). Our older models are non-AEL, use a cylindrical shaped charcoal canister. Information stickers under the hood help with identification, if still there.

These '96 trucks are SFI (Sequential Fuel Injection)(some say Sequential multiport Fuel Injection). MFI (Multiport Fuel Injection) is for older trucks, but some of the shop manual sections apply to both. My '94 uses a 14 CUX control with mechanical distributor (dizzy), the '96 uses GEMS control and electronic distributor (no dizzy). I think the '94 is MFI and the '96 is SFI. Our trucks are simple compared to late models, so stick to the basics and you will be fine, beware of over-thinking.
 
  #35  
Old 10-09-2024 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnZo
AEL = Advanced Evaporative Loss system, means charcoal canister system to deal with gas vapors from the tank, uses a rectangular shaped charcoal canister. AEL was a later update to the design (probably a response to regulations). Our older models are non-AEL, use a cylindrical shaped charcoal canister. Information stickers under the hood help with identification, if still there.

These '96 trucks are SFI (Sequential Fuel Injection)(some say Sequential multiport Fuel Injection). MFI (Multiport Fuel Injection) is for older trucks, but some of the shop manual sections apply to both. My '94 uses a 14 CUX control with mechanical distributor (dizzy), the '96 uses GEMS control and electronic distributor (no dizzy). I think the '94 is MFI and the '96 is SFI. Our trucks are simple compared to late models, so stick to the basics and you will be fine, beware of over-thinking.
Thank you!!!!

I don’t see anything here about an AEL compatibility but seems like the exact one I pulled out of my vehicle.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/u...SABEgLvwvD_BwE
 
  #36  
Old 10-09-2024 | 01:56 PM
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That pump assembly should do. Don't forget to purchase a new gasket to seal it into the tank.

You should spend some time going through the main 'sticky'... https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...02/#post186769
 
  #37  
Old 10-09-2024 | 04:55 PM
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There are several parts houses that specialize in LR or Euro parts. Many folks use Lucky8, Atlantic British (Roverparts), Rovers North, British Parts of Utah, Rimmer Brothers, other Europe-based suppliers. I like AutohausAZ, but have used all the above. Depends on what I am looking for. Summit is a good generic parts house, so they probably get their LR parts from someone else. Generally, you get what you pay for, so word of advice is to not go bottom dollar for important parts that make the car go. Especially if you plan to go off-road.
 
  #38  
Old 10-09-2024 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZo
There are several parts houses that specialize in LR or Euro parts. Many folks use Lucky8, Atlantic British (Roverparts), Rovers North, British Parts of Utah, Rimmer Brothers, other Europe-based suppliers. I like AutohausAZ, but have used all the above. Depends on what I am looking for. Summit is a good generic parts house, so they probably get their LR parts from someone else. Generally, you get what you pay for, so word of advice is to not go bottom dollar for important parts that make the car go. Especially if you plan to go off-road.

I Typically agree, but I refuse to pay 4,5, or $600 for a fuel pump when 90% of them are manufactured by one of the big three companies, being Denso, Bosch, or Delphi. Most are just re packaged when it comes to fuel pumps. And for $80 I can have literally 9 of them to one from Atlantic British or Lucky 8.
 
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  #39  
Old 10-10-2024 | 09:18 AM
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While you are there, maybe replace the vent tube from the tank to filler assembly. It tends to crack and loose gas by evaporation and not build tank pressure. L8 and AutohausAZ have less expensive pumps too. I forgot you said you own a D2 as well.
 
  #40  
Old 10-13-2024 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by WaltNYC
That pump assembly should do. Don't forget to purchase a new gasket to seal it into the tank.

You should spend some time going through the main 'sticky'... https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...02/#post186769
Question!

so the last few big issues I need to sort out, are with wiring.

They cut all wires out from the dash and just left the ends. The AC wires, the steel cables, the radio housing wires, everything behind the center console in the dash. What’s the best way to re wire it all? Can I buy complete harnesses for a decent price and feed them through the dash, or am I going to have to solder them back in one by one? If so that will suck there’s only about 50k wires back there and I have no idea where they go.
 


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