Out helping my son on his newly acquired mobile Home ($500 price) and I noticed the brake pedal was a bit mushy. I then noticed a trail of fluid from under the drivers floor and a constant drip of brake fluid... I still had a bit of brake so I got it home, refilling as I went. Now it is raining out so I can't investigate further. I am assuming it will be a brake line, but heard it has 2 lines (ABS) I know a double flare is the way to go, but have also heard of others using a compression fitting to fix this. any thoughts?? ABS is disconnected (electrically)

Any ideas on the size of the tubing and such? Not looking forward to crawling underneath with my messed up knees after surgery....

 

breakline is likely ruptured from rust.
under the driver foot well is a coupler for the 2 rear lines that continue to the rear of the truck.
You need to replace the bad line or a portion of it and inspect the remaining lines or just replace them as I did. afaik you cannot source the hard lines for a D1 - I had to shape mine - to hard just time consuming. Google it Im sure someones got a vid on shaping brake lines.
NAPA is where I got everything I needed when I replaced all of mine.

 

Found the brake line that is leaking. it looks as though the other line was replaced The connection on the forward end of the leaking line is between the body and the frame, so I am not sure I will be able to get to it to disconnect there. From there, it goes up to the ABS unit and I can easily get to that connection. Lots of bends and turns to get down to the connector below, but I can probably eliminate a few and replace the line back to the rear door area underneath where the line looks much better.

I measured the brake line and come up with 5mm outside dimension. Manual says 12 mm so is that the nut size??

 

this is all from memory so verify before purchasing!

I believe the line is 3/16" (4.76mm) - I used copper nickel line - very easy to shape and flare
the fittings are all 10mm with 1mm thread - nut is 12mm
(there is one 13mm x1mm fitting at the abs)
you will break the clips removing the old line so order some from RoversNorth

youll need at the least:
Flaring tool
small pipe cutter
small pipe benders

 

Thanks I appreciate the info! I peeked under there and measured 5mm, but that probably includes a bit of rust, or not completely square on the tube

Thinking I might leave the old line in place as removing it looks like more trouble than it is worth, and a good place to attach the new one. I believe I can get a good piece of tubing to flare by the back wheel and put a coupling there. Not sure about the front coupling as it is tucked between the frame and body with not much give.

Hopefully Saturday will be a nice day out with no rain.

 

Its 3/16", not 5mm. They used metric bubble flare.

 

Very true Also the threads for the brake line tube nuts and unions are M10 X 1.0
You can get packs of them online or at any auto parts store.
And depending on the length of line you need you can get straight lengths of preflared line with nuts at any Auto Zone or Advance (from 8", up to 6 feet long).
You asked about "compression fittings"/ Can you get them...Yes. Should you use them NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

So there seems to be a conspiracy against my truck here in town.. nobody carries the bubble flare parts so I have to order them online. I did buy the only 6ft length of brake tubing in town with the bubble flare on it so that is a start I guess.I am surprised at the amount of rust on the coupling below the firewall that hopefully i can get to and get apart to attach the new line, and then add the flare and coupling to the line by the back door to bypass the rusted out leaking line.

Just waiting for parts now...

 

IF you want to save yourself a headache get a quality 3/16" lever style tubing bender like an

 

Been thinking it might be time to get a good tubing bender, but the line I got is the copper-nickel stuff that is supposed to be unable to be kinked. It feels pretty flexible but you never go wrong with a good tubing bender.