Well thanks to wife and Uncle Sam, got to order my Terrafirma TF202 from Underground Rovers and Rotor/pads/seals/gaskets/SS brake lines/wheel bearings from British Pacific today.

I figured since the rotors are worn pretty deep and unknown status of the wheel bearings that I would do all the work on the Disco all at the same time. I am pretty excited to get all the parts next week.

So how much work are the rotors/wheel bearings? I have read that the suspension requires lots of PB Blast on the studs/nuts to make it easier. I also recall Spike saying 2 1/6" socket for the hub nuts? But just wondering how difficult it is. From Rave it seems fairly straight forward.

-ed

 

I will defer to those who have done all the work you are referring to, but, in addition to my 100% acknowledgment of LOTS of PB Blaster, the other tip I would offer is to make sure you have a big "Cheater" bar.
I use the handle from my floor jack so that I can put slow steady pressure on those stubborn nuts or bolts underneath. Quick jerks/impacts have a way of destroying the bolts, rounding edges or snapping things off all together.

And, just to give credit where credit is due - I got the idea from DannyLeeDisco <-- thanks again DLD!!

 

Dont forget to get seals if youre doing the bearings. I recomend the double lip Defender seals (sorry I dont know the #) The brakes, rotors, and wheel bearings are pretty much straight forward other then gettin the rotor off of the hub can be a bit of a bear.

 

When putting the springs on, I had to put a bottle jack between the axle and frame, forcing the axle downward to give much needed room to get the old springs out and new in.

 

I believe it is 2 1/16"

 

2 1/16" is correct on the hub nut. You can remove them simply enough with out a socket, but the initial torque when installing is something like 55 ftlb to seat the bearings. A regular socket that size probably won't be deep enough, and other methods just end up dorking up the nut. If you're already spending a bunch of cash on those parts, I suggest buying the $15 hub nut socket that actually fits right.
And x2 on the PB blaster and cheater bar. The bolts holding on the brake caliper have a pretty hefty torque on them, so you're going to want a long pipe and a breaker bar. They should come off no problem then.

 

Great!

The brake calipers use a 13mm 12pt socket. Or you can use a 13mm combo wrench, use the closed end on the brake caliper, grab another wrench and hook it to the 13mm wrench using the box end and using it as leverage. Does that make sense? I laid waste to my bolts with PB also..

 

The 2-wrench trick works in a pinch, but I much prefer the bar/pipe combo. MUCH less chance of things slipping and smacking you in the face, knuckles on metal, etc. Had to clean up a few Marine's bloody faces from that one.

 

Just checked on that tool, it says 2 1/6". What gives? Am I going to mess up my lock nut when I attempt to fit it?

 

Does the tool itself show 2-1/6? Or is it a misprint maybe? I know I got mine off of ebay a few years ago it shows 2-1/16 on one side and 53mm on the other.