Kenk thanks :-)

 

Ok completely done

wheel bearings, ss brake lines, terrafirma lift, rotors and pads. I really wish I had more time. I have the radius arm bushings, transmission filter kit and radiator hoses. But finished at 10:38 pm or so. Two days lots of hours = totally worth it. The rig drives so nice. Just got to brake in the new rotors and pads.

some one might have done the front rotors before, but the wheel bears were pretty dirty and the rotors were pretty rusted on to the hubs. plus who ever tightened the outter most locking hub nut must have been freaking hercules. I had to stand on a long rod and have my son push the huge hub socket against the nut just to get it off. I will post before and after pics.

But currently riding 2.5"+ over stock with the TF202

thanks to all for all the help that was provided, very much apreciated

 

I have attached the pre upgrade and post upgrade pictures. Again thanks to all for the online help :-)

 

Nice.

 

Ok now that I have driven it for the past couple of days, I would have to say it is very nice ride. Only problem that I have now is a weird vibration. Around 35-40 mph there is a vibration in the front and I can feel on the steering wheel.

I am going to take the rig in to the tire place and get the tires rotated and balanced, but could it be from under torquing the hub nuts?

How are you suppose to measure 64nM with that strange hub socket? There is no spot for the 3/4" torque wrench to attach. See below from the rave:

Refit
11. Clean stub axle and drive shaft and fit hub
assembly to axle.
12. Fit spacing washer.
13. Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
14. Back off adjusting nut 90°. Tighten to 4 Nm.
This will give the required hub end float of
0,010mm
15. Fit a new lock washer.

 

I had a 1/2" drive, 2 1/16" socket.

I used an impact gun to put on the lock nut, and I also used a 1/2" drive T-wrench to torque it. If you can use an impact gun, they normally exceed a little (I think like 55 lb/ft) which is just 5 lb/ft over since 65nM = about 50lb/ft.

 

Did you really use and Impact Air gun to tighten the lock nut onto the lock washer which retains the hub nut to the washer on the outer hub bearing? WHY young sir?

Just snug it up against the lock washer and bend it over (like your prom date). There is very little about an impact driver which says "precision" and this is an area of your vehicle where precision is key.

 

Because my impact gun tightens to 55lb/foot exactly, idk how my teacher did some tests last year to prove it, and the specs call for 50 lb/ft. 5lb difference didn't seem to be all that bad to me, but then again I probably am wrong

 

It isn't the torque, but the impact that can prematurely kill the bearings. I think it's called brinnelling?http://www.dliengineering.com/vibman...innelling1.htm

The indentation of a race in a ball bearing due to a large static force or continuous vibratory force applied to the bearing when stationary.

 

Still a little confused.
Rave says tighten down to 63nM and then back off 90 degrees. Then to tighten again to 4nM. I am pretty sure the first torque is to set the bearings and snug up the grease seal in back. But the question I have is how do you measure the torque with a hub socket that only has a hole in both sides for a bar to run through it?