So I spent the majority of the day yesterday getting OME coils and my new wheels/tires on. It was really hard. Not in a complex or difficult way, but in a "Im physically exhausted and I still have 2 more wheels worth of rusted nuts which I have loosen 1/4 turn at a time" kinda way.

I just thought I would continue the self-backpatting and post a before and after. Its still a POS, but at least it has some personality now

before:



after:



One question...

How do you get the the nut off the front shock upper bolt?

 

I had the same issue. Even gripping the shock and using an impact driver, I couldn't get it off without destroying the shock. I figure I'll just upgrade to loop style towers when I get new shocks.

 

Good to know Im not an isolated idiot. I have new shocks to install, so I dont care about ruining the old ones. Did you just end up cutting the bolt off?

 

I was going to install new bushing so it wasn't worth cutting them off, but if I had new shocks I wouldn't think twice.

 

Looks good. You can remove the whole shock tower with the shock in it and work on it on a bench. Where'd you get the wheels from?

 

Yeah I know, they are both out. Pic is of the truck with coils and no shocks.

There is that part at the top of the shock bolt that you can put a little wrench on. However once you get the nut almost all the way off, there is no longer enough of the bolt sticking out to grip with a wrench. Knowwhatimsayin?

 

Sorry, the wheels are Pro-comp 87, 15x8. Tires are 31x10.5x15. I got the wheels from Welcome to Race-Mart - Quality isn't an accident.

I think they are just a drop shipper for 4wheelparts.com, as the shipment came from Compton, CA (EFIL4ZAGGIN baby! haha). Had my fingers crossed because the reviews for they, and 4WP, are pretty hit or miss. Ordered on a Friday though, and they came the following Friday, so no complaints. $65 ea. with free shipping.

 

You got further than I did. The nut wouldn't budge at all. I tried sticking the flat end of the rod in a vice and it just rounded the end off. I tried gripping the shock body with channel locks and using an impact driver on the nut but that did nothing too.

In your situation I'd grip the exposed threads below the nut with vice grips, or get the hack saw out.

 

Wow, Im surprised you couldnt get enough grip with a vise! My **** is/was pretty rusty and I was able to get it most of the way with a small crescent wrench on that flat end.


I assumed that would be the answer, but figured it couldnt hurt to ask. I find it strange that this is almost never addressed in lift install instructions. They all just say, almost verbatim, "Take the shock tower out. Remove the old shock and install the new one".

Im like, um, how?

 

RovahFarm - Parts for Land Rover Cars and Accessories - Land Rover Discovery, Range Rover, LR3, LR2, Land Rover Defender, Freelander and Land Rover Series has the steel wheel lug nuts for cheap, I think I paid $35 shipped for a whole set.