Looking For An Idea Of What I'm Getting Into
#31
Hey Spike555 I stopped by Advance and got my "service engine code". It was P..038 I can't recall but the computer they had gave the description and it said. "Misfire cylinder 1", I had a similar code come back once on my 4runner. I fixed it when I looked at my spark plug wires and realized one had come loose somehow. I know a guy that services rovers and he said to change the coil pack and the spark plugs and wires, along with a full tune up while I'm at it and it would be fine. Sound about right?
#32
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ketchikan, Alaska, USA
Posts: 2,073
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
While you're at it, just flush some money down the toilet too. You only need to replace the parts IF they are bad. If one cylinder is having a misfire, then your coil pack is fine(unless the tower is damaged). Changing plugs and wires is a great place to start. A full tune up is the plugs, wires (8mm, not 7mm), air, fuel and oil filters and of course, oil. Clean the MAF and Throttle body and PCV system. Coil Packs are NOT a part of a tune-up. They are replaced as they are tested bad, or if you have money burning a hole in your pockets.
Last edited by Chris-bob; 01-31-2011 at 04:40 PM.
#33
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
Also you need to understand the CDL shifter's functions. The same little shifter does two totally isolated sepearate functions and should move very smoothly and easily IF the linkages are not corroded,nasty, and locked in place.
First function is to shift the Transfer case from high to low and back by moving the shift fore and aft. The transmission must be in neutral if the solenoid has not been removed and is functioning properly. Moving it forward downshifts the T/C to LOW, moving it aft returns the T/C to HIGH. VERY SIMPLE.
The second independent function is to LOCK your Center Differential Thus the term CDL (Center Differential LOCK). This is accomplished by moving the short shifter toward the drivers seat to LOCK, toward the passengers seat to UNLOCK. This can be accomplished independent of whether you are in low or high T/C setting. And at any speed from sitting still ti highway crusing as long as the wheels are not spinning freely (loss of traction). You should only lock it when needed (never on dry pavement or hard dry surfaces). Lock it before you get it stuck and buried deep but not when wheels are spinning.
If it will not move freely, you basically have to remove the center console, drill the factory rivets out of the rubber gaiter that covers the shifter, lift the gaiter out of the way, and you can see all the linkages.
Click on the link in my signature to see lots of pics of my CDL teardown.
First function is to shift the Transfer case from high to low and back by moving the shift fore and aft. The transmission must be in neutral if the solenoid has not been removed and is functioning properly. Moving it forward downshifts the T/C to LOW, moving it aft returns the T/C to HIGH. VERY SIMPLE.
The second independent function is to LOCK your Center Differential Thus the term CDL (Center Differential LOCK). This is accomplished by moving the short shifter toward the drivers seat to LOCK, toward the passengers seat to UNLOCK. This can be accomplished independent of whether you are in low or high T/C setting. And at any speed from sitting still ti highway crusing as long as the wheels are not spinning freely (loss of traction). You should only lock it when needed (never on dry pavement or hard dry surfaces). Lock it before you get it stuck and buried deep but not when wheels are spinning.
If it will not move freely, you basically have to remove the center console, drill the factory rivets out of the rubber gaiter that covers the shifter, lift the gaiter out of the way, and you can see all the linkages.
Click on the link in my signature to see lots of pics of my CDL teardown.
#34
#35
Wow you guys are really stuck on my problem using the shifter the first time. You go out and find me 10 guys that have never owned a land rover and have only owned Toyota's and Sammy's and operated those manual transmissions. I'll show you 9 guys or more that have a hard it is for them to get that manual/ sticker and the pattern it shows. I didn't mean to offend you I was simply stating that it was difficult to understand.
#36
I had the same issue with learning the cdl. It didn't make sence to me when I first looking at it. a Local rover guy showed it to me and after that I was like... well duh...
Toss some plugs and wires on her. I can do the entire job in about 10 minutes... I've had a little practice....
Get a set of the 8mm Magnacors and use the champion copper plugs from any of the local parts stores. Take of your wires and line them up to match length of the new wires.
The coil pack has the fire order written right on it, and in case you don't know the fire order for the plugs is super simple...
looking straight down on the engine...
(Coil packs)
8 --- 7
6 --- 5
4 --- 3
2 --- 1
Front
Dab a little dielectric grease on each end of the plug wire (never hurts)
Removing the MAF etc to gain access to the drivers side plugs is about a 30 second job... literally 1 screw and flip the 2 retaining clips holding the MAF... you'll see... the airbox itself simply slides back and out.
No sense paying someone to do this simplest of jobs.
Toss some plugs and wires on her. I can do the entire job in about 10 minutes... I've had a little practice....
Get a set of the 8mm Magnacors and use the champion copper plugs from any of the local parts stores. Take of your wires and line them up to match length of the new wires.
The coil pack has the fire order written right on it, and in case you don't know the fire order for the plugs is super simple...
looking straight down on the engine...
(Coil packs)
8 --- 7
6 --- 5
4 --- 3
2 --- 1
Front
Dab a little dielectric grease on each end of the plug wire (never hurts)
Removing the MAF etc to gain access to the drivers side plugs is about a 30 second job... literally 1 screw and flip the 2 retaining clips holding the MAF... you'll see... the airbox itself simply slides back and out.
No sense paying someone to do this simplest of jobs.
#37
Wow you guys are really stuck on my problem using the shifter the first time. You go out and find me 10 guys that have never owned a land rover and have only owned Toyota's and Sammy's and operated those manual transmissions. I'll show you 9 guys or more that have a hard it is for them to get that manual/ sticker and the pattern it shows. I didn't mean to offend you I was simply stating that it was difficult to understand.
#38
The transfercase is a figure 8 and you can shift the cdl however you please.. Why wouldn't you?
#39
I get why they didn't make it push button. I also get that it must be in neutral. I just don't understand why I had to turn the point of the **** between 7 o clock and 11 Oclock when going to High and then back to 3 oclock to get it to go back into 4 high unlocked. I also had to force the hell out of it and make like a figure 8 to get it to go anywhere. I'm guessing the p.o. never used which is why it was so hard for me to use. I'll make a habit out of engaging it and disengaged a few times a day until it loosens up, hopefully.
#40
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
It is a simple dual purpose shifter that moves fore and aft and side independently of the other function. I don't consider it an H pattern as there is no center gate like most of the old four in the floor shifters.
It should move very smoothly unless it is bound up.
By all means don't let our concern or enthusiam offend you. Tear it up if you want to and then you may appreciate a little forewarning. I certainly would.
It should move very smoothly unless it is bound up.
By all means don't let our concern or enthusiam offend you. Tear it up if you want to and then you may appreciate a little forewarning. I certainly would.