Hey everone long time, too long without a disco! Well I have found a 95 for sale in my area and I wanna get everyone's opinion before I buy it...given that the price is right. Here's the link.

http://huntington.craigslist.org/cto/4262814737.html

So first thing that I notice is in the pic of the interior if you look close enough at the center console there looks like a *** sticking out of the side. I asked the guy about it and he says that he doesn't know what it does...I am wondering if someone before him broke the diff lock and rigged up a *** to lock the diffs. He said that the diff lock works on the t case lever but. I would need to get under it and investigate.

Next it has a cracked front windscreen...not that big of an issue. Safelight fix $300

There is a huge puddle of oil underneath it in one of the pics.

Are D1's known for rear main seals leaking...

He also said the srs light was on
What would be wrong to throw an srs code?

How more reliable are these compaired to a d2? Are there head gasket issues with the gems engine like the bosch?

I could possibly pick this thing up for $1250 is that to high or should I go for it at that price?

Thanks everyone

 

Idk if that link works

http://huntington.craigslist.org/cto/4262814737.html

 

There seems to be an issue on the passenger fender/hood area, the gap looks odd like maybe some previous damage. Definitely investigate the CDL, that **** on the trans tunnel looks like a DIY bypass for the stock CDL lever. There's also some weird switch action going on by the mirror ****. When I see goody stuff like this it makes me question how well maintained the rest of the truck is.
If the rest of the truck were in sound mechanical and cosmetic condition I might go $1250.
Have the heads been done? 188k is a lot to have if they haven't, only a matter of time.
I'd bring a stack of Hundreds with me and start at $600 and max out at $1000.

 

I don't know if that is actually a **** or an old school cell phone handset mount… That's what it looks like to me.

 

If the S in SRS light flashes for the first few seconds after you start the truck and you are lucky,typically it means that the system suffered a low voltage condition at some point that was below the threshold required to trigger the airbags and threw a code.

If this is the case, there is no other way to clear the code than to go to the dealer and have them clear it. There are a bunch of posts on here claiming that disconnecting your battery overnight will clear it, but I'm calling BS on that because I left mine unhooked for nearly a week and it was still there when I hooked power back to it.

That is typically, there are a bunch of things that can trigger the SRS light, all of them not good.

That thing on the tunnel I don't think is for the diff, at that height you would have to go up over the trans and back down to the diff lock dog, which would mean a cable in a push/pull config and I would be skeptical as to how that might work. looks to me like maybe a lock hasp for a laptop maybe? dunno. seems too low for a phone.

 

Thanks guys, heads are a good ??? I asked about them and he didn't know if they have been done. Thats why I was wondering if the gems had problems with em. The **** on the side of the trans tunnel looked like a diy diff lock to me as well but given the fact that its a 95 and we were moving from the "zac morris" cell phones to car phones that would make sense it could be a mount for a phone. I didn't even notice the damage to the hood on the passenger side, thanks for pointing it out. After all that it has going onwith it I and after I inspect it, $750 would be my max. I'm not gonna usr it as a DD but I also ddon't want to spend a lot of $$$ making it trail ready.

I will post back with what I find out.

Cheers

 

SrS could mean airbags went off before and were not replaced properly ( note damage fish pointed out) or a fault in that system

Do not go by how nice paint/body looks, skinned in aluminum no rust, check rockers for rust and under carpet if possible, bad rust hides easy on these

If hg were not done or done wrong plan on them $1200 +/- depending if you can do the work

Does that **** pull out? If so it is a rig for the small shifter

How was the lift done? Springs, springs and spacers? Longer shocks? Did it need camber corrected front/rear trailing arms (correct name for part escapes me) if so were they done?

Tire condition?

All gears work on trans? Cdl work? That is the small shifter works transfer case

How is the steering?

Does the wiring look hacked up under hood?

Do like fish said start real low, esecialy if you plan to pay for repairs vs do yourself these can be money pits fast

 

Will Tillery had a HG kit that included new everything and already remanned heads, just send back your old heads. About 2 years ago this kit was $6-700 and was everything you needed. I knocked out the HG completely from start to finish in one 12hr wrench fest.
So if you can DIY then the HG doesn't have to be $1200. HG aren't actually that hard. Everything is bolt off, bolt on. There's just lots of little steps involved that make the job seem daunting.

 

THat's what it is. That is an old panavise ball mount. I have the same one in my Disco II... you leave it to cover the holes.

 

I hope this thing works out. I really want to get back in a rover. After owning a d2 and then selling it after 3 years I feel naked without one lol. I would choose the d1 over a 1999/2003 d2 because of the diff lock and the gems engine. If not I will just keep my eyes open for a good cheap d1.
Charlie V I hope that is a phone mount I really want this thing to be legit.