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MAF clean fixed cold hesitation (I think)

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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 07:12 PM
  #11  
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I have used CRC and have it on the shelf in the cellar.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 07:41 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Michael M. Koch
Is there a recommended MAF cleaner? I know anything that's not specifically made for it is verboten.
CRC/Mass air flow sensor cleaner (05110) | | AutoZone.com
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 07:12 PM
  #13  
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Gonna try this tomorrow. Cleaned the throttle body a while back but wasn't aware of the MAF, or the problems it could potentially cause.
Thanks for the info, I'm here to learn!

Edit: Found this tidbit of wisdom from Disco Mike whilst researching the subject:
As for the MAF, clean it and loose it, they fail when being cleaned so leave it along.[sic]
Is this true? Or does it only apply if done improperly? (Engine warm, WD-40 instead of the aforementioned CRC/MAF cleaner, etc.)
 

Last edited by Michael M. Koch; Feb 2, 2013 at 07:19 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 08:38 PM
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The reason the MAFs fail when cleaned is that some fool (aka DIY Doofus) has switched on the ignition, either turned up the radio to rock the garage, or backed the truck out into the driveway. As soon as the key was turned to position 2 very small parts inside the MAF were heated to about 350F above ambient temperature. Spray that with aerosol and the cooling effect of the reduced pressue spray makes such a big difference in temps that those small parts can fracture. Like heating up a plain glass jar in an oven, then filling it with ice water. The MAF for a D1 costs like $1400. I have cleaned mine several times. If you do this when it has sat overnight, and don't put key in ignition, then you should be OK. Let it drip dry before turning on key in truck.

WD 40 is not a good MAF cleaner, or a throttle butterfly valve cleaner (use carb cleaner). WD40 is good to lube linkage, etc.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 09:52 PM
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Thanks Savannah!
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 05:59 PM
  #16  
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In my Volkswagen days it was very common to pull the mad and soak it in a baggy if isopropyl alcohol for ten to fifteen minutes then air dry before reinstallation. I wonder if this technic would hurt the rover maf?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 06:30 PM
  #17  
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Gonna take a big baggie and a lot of alcohol to soak this:

I used the CRC MAF sensor cleaner, about $7 from Advance Auto, worked like a charm. One can will probably last a year, if not more.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 01:17 PM
  #18  
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Glad the MAF cleaning solved your issue, always nice when its something simple.

I'm just wondering though, do the MAFs used in the 94&95 discos respond to cleaning as well as the GEMS ones? Maybe a stupid question, but I thought I would ask anyway.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by zoso-
Glad the MAF cleaning solved your issue, always nice when its something simple.

I'm just wondering though, do the MAFs used in the 94&95 discos respond to cleaning as well as the GEMS ones? Maybe a stupid question, but I thought I would ask anyway.
Can't hurt. It still operates on the same principle I assume?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 07:14 AM
  #20  
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All MAF systems work the same. They heat up an element, usually a wire, and measure the amount of current needed to maintain the temperature.

I have seen some older systems that used a seimconductior chip instead of the wire, but the semicondutor was short lived.
 
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