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manifold studs

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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 08:19 AM
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Rock Crawling
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Default manifold studs

Any recommendations on successfully removing the nuts on the manifold studs to drop the y pipe? Toasted the tranny yesterday so gotta pull it. Should I go ahead and get a exhaust manifold stud kit kit?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 08:58 AM
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I tried heat was no go, then tried that freeze spray they sell it did the job, think its nuts off by crc?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 09:01 AM
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First, if you haven't started already.....pray! This can be a real PITA if a stud breaks.


Get a small wire brush and clean the nuts as good as you can. Then spray penetrating oil like PB Blaster on them a few times and let it sit as long as you can (overnight is good). Don't rush this step.
Make sure the socket and extension bars you are going to use fit spot on. It's easy to round-off one of these nuts with a bad socket. Before you go to remove the nuts heat them with a propane torch. Then go easy because if it feels like the stud is breaking IT IS.
Should you get a stud kit? To be safe yes, but if you have no breaks all you need is (6) new M8X1.25 lock nuts. And don't forget (2) new gaskets ETC4524. Good Luck!
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by FLA Rover
Any recommendations on successfully removing the nuts on the manifold studs to drop the y pipe? Toasted the tranny yesterday so gotta pull it. Should I go ahead and get a exhaust manifold stud kit kit?
Just did this on Saturday.
I'd hit the nut with penetrating oil every day for a few days before.
I used my impact with a socket and extensions and 5/6 came out no problem. The other one the nut sheared off the stud. DOH!!!!! I tried welding a new nut on the stud 3 times and it kept shearing off the stud a little bit more. Finally I had to grind the stud off flush, drill it and tap it. What a nightmare. Hopefully with you being in FL the rust/corrosion won't be as bad as up here. I'm replacing a couple of the studs with flange head bolts, M8-1.25
On almost all of mine the actual stud came out the nut. What a stupid design if you ask me.
Oh yeah, Use a 6 point socket, not a 12 point. 1/2" or 13mm works.
 

Last edited by fishEH; Apr 6, 2015 at 09:05 AM.
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 01:08 PM
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Rock Crawling
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Well here goes nothing... thanks everyone...
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 02:27 PM
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Titan Stud Puller - 3/8in. Drive, Model 16023 - Socket Wrenches - Amazon.com Titan Stud Puller - 3/8in. Drive, Model 16023 - Socket Wrenches - Amazon.com

they sell them at northern tool and oreillys too.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by pinkytoe69
That's pretty interesting. Though it probably would have just sheared the study off flush with the downpipe.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 06:11 PM
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I have a set of stud and drilled hole E-Z Outs along with a full metric/SAE tap & die set. I quit busting my knuckles years ago...... I also use allot of anti-seize (copper and aluminum) for stuff I want off again without being a PITA. Dodge's are ten times worse than any Rover ever made...... Last time I did exhaust studs it was zip, zip done.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 05:01 AM
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Pulled it back home last night and gonna start in on it tonight. ASlmost took the day off from work cause you know im itching to bust up some knuckles!
 
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by fishEH
That's pretty interesting. Though it probably would have just sheared the study off flush with the downpipe.
Perhaps.

With mine, anything it could grab it would unscrew.
 
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