New (used) fans came in and went in like no problems at all. Come on with A/C and run when car is stopped and still hot. That is NOW sorted.
I have found an interesting thing with the Ultra Gauge and this one. It shows I get 1,125 MPG and have a RANGE of 20.235 miles. Something is screwy for sure.
Engine temp with a 195 deg stat is around 202 to 210 with outside temp of 90 and 80% humidity. The DASH gauge is not even at the HALF WAY MARK.
If cold is 7:00 and COOKED is 11:00 this runs at 8:45 to 9:00 (using a clock reference so it almost make sense.
Next job is a FULL cooling system flush and a pressure test of the system which should be good since not drips, steam or noise for the system.
I have an AutoXray OBD reader and will check the car with that since the OBDII signal for MOST functions makes NO SENSE AT ALL.

 

Mr. George,

Spike had documented that the Ultra Guage mpg and range calcs need decimal point moved over 1. Temps will be right on. Were your posted temps at freeway speed or at idle?

If rad flush does not bring it down where you want it I suggest you switch to a 180 like I have.

 

How do you do that?
Ran the car since the post and it HELD 202 deg the whole time. It was LOW on water the first test so that let it creep up.
The P38 runs at 194 on the highway and 202 to 206 in town with A/C on.
Will run it Sunday for about 25 miles on all kinds of road to see what it does.
Do you THINK the analog gauge is BAD that is why it is holding steady and not jumping up? ALSO the AutoXray showed the temp 4 deg LOWER than the Ultra gauge.

 

Analog gauge is made to average signal over time, so it responds slowly, not to small changes. Can't move decimal over, it is just how they made it, I guess. As for one scanner showing different, that is strange, as the the OBDII port sends it out in digital fashion.... You would want to see the temps on highway run about what the opening temp is for the stat, so in the 190's. In town, it should also creep up some, similar to the P38.

 

Water level, will this effect if TO FULL? Burped the air and the temp dropped down with a HIGH of 206 low of 195 with Both A/C on and mix of 35 to 55 mph.
Letting it cool so I can adjust the amount of water in it.

 

There should be room for expansion inside the reserve jug, not full to the brim. Usually there is a mrrak, a molded line, or just go by half full. Main thing is to have a reference point to see if coolant is leaking out slowly over time. These temps sound good.

 

If you let it IDLE around with both A/C on and DO NOT go over 25 in 10 miles it gets to 214 to 216. That was as HOT as it got till I stopped and turned off the engine when it got to 219 then the fans where on and it cooled down.
I sucked out the water down to the SEAM in the tank before that test.
I THINK once I clean the radiator air flow area I should be fine.
Other then the temp worry, after the P38 you can understand that one.
I do have a COMPLETE parts truck with an engine with 198,000 on it and no title so parts are behind the shop if I need them.
Have a good Memorial Day.

 

IMHO you may wish to try a 180F stat as well, takes about a gallon of coolant to swap. I ran down he road this AM and returned at 183 - 187 F. Was hoping for lots of rain from storm Beryl, just spotty.

 

Who has a 180? I was looking at a racing 165 but do not think it will seal.

 

Mr. George, any local parts store will have 160-180-and 195 for the D1 blocks, it also fits around 3000 various GM. See Duralast/Thermostat (15358) | 1998 Land Rover Discovery 8 Cylinders 2 4.0L MFI OHV | AutoZone.com