Soooo. After Alot of hard work:


She is back together!!! And running! only one snag after the fact.

CEL and Code 48. Found these instructions on how to do basic settings for this code. Anyone have any input on this procedure?

Code 48 - Stepper motorCheck base idle speed as follows:

1. First remove and clean the idle motor and the port it screws into. Clean the throttle body as well.
2. On the top of the throttle body you will see a hole (possibly covered by an anti tamper plug) for the base idle adjuster.
3. Remove the air bypass hose from the throttle body, which will cause the engine to speed up to 2500rpm or so. Unplug the connector to the idle motor after 5 seconds then reconnect the hose.
4. Squeeze the hose shut with needle nose vise grips and adjust the base idle using an allen wrench to give an idle speed of 6-700rpm. Get the lowest speed you can that gives smooth running and does not stall when blipping the throttle. Screw in for slower idle, out for faster idle.
5. Reconnect the idle stepper and remove the vise grip and you should be done.
6. In addition, refer to tests 15 and 16 of continuity test procedure. Check road speed sensor- refer to test 25 of continuity test procedure.

 

At this point I would NOT suggest adjusting the base idle screw... I'd try to set it at the ideal 700 rpm by making damn sure all the other "things" are in correct operating condition first... seals, gaskets, hoses, clamps, IACV function, etc. If anything is out of its design parameters you will just be chasing bad settings by adjusting that screw.

As for step six (tests 15 and 16) that should be 50ish ohms (40 - 60 is a good range) on BOTH sets of pins.

 

Update. On the way home I discovered I forgot to connect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Was in a hurry to get it done. Might this effect the stepper motor? I am assuming yes. Is there a chance the CEL will turn itself off?

When I drove it this morning it ran great! most power I have ever felt from her.

 

AHHH that "missing" vac line will let in un metered (by MAF) air into the plenum.

That should help

 

Will the CEL clear itself eventually or do I need to pay someone to clear it?
I have OBD II with my Ross Tech but do not believe we have the OBD II port. Correct?

 

Sorry about not answering your actual question...

Correct... you are running on OBD I not II .... OBD II is of no use to you and that '95.

(Have the radio code ready before you do this.)

If you don't fell like waiting for it to clear just undo your neg. batt. cable and wait about one minute to reconnect. After reconnection you will get the 02 code... turn off ignition and wait for all relays to 'click' off (about 5 sec.) then turn ignition back on.

IT WILL BE CLEARED IF... the problem has been solved. IF not then it will come back soon. 48 is a good one to have as it is a simple one to fix.

 

Excellent info Cosmo as usual. I have disconnected my battery a few times, starter, CB cable routing and powering etc etc.. I am getting good at resetting my radio code. I will give it a try and let you know. Thanks Cosmo!

 

My pleasure bro. I wanna head out to CO and drive the divide. You scope out the route and I'll bring beer-flavored beer. Now that I have my RRC I have wander lust for the Great Rockies and the Western Deserts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsOC-URG4oE

 

You are welcome anytime. Good news! I cleared the fault. Has not returned yet. Also purchased the kick down cable. Ever replaced any of those?

 

you dont have to undo the battery cable to reset the codes, there is an orange and white connector under the passenger dash, you turn the ignition on undo the connector for 5 sec plug it back together turn the ign off wait for the relay to click and it will clear, or show the next fault code. just repeat til all codes are clear.