If i understand correctly....and i will before i start anything, i need to remove the rocker covers to get to the push rods. this should allow me to determine where the tick is coming from and to insure that that is in fact the problem.

I was advised to use a small amount of kerosene (2-3oz) to slowly eat away any sludge (instead of lots that drops chunks in the system) right before the oil change. I'm not sure if I add that into the oil through the open cover or the normal inlet for oil but we'll get there too.

 

Just curious.... I run the rotella T6 5w-40 and I see some of us saying GREAT synthetic AWSOME only way to go, but then I see some of us saying 20w-50 .. when I went to the Rotella I seem to go through a little more oil small leak someplace but not heads.. anyway, isnt the T5 or 20w-50 or 15w-40 non synthetic? and this is just as good? Im thinking since I live here in south of south florida where it basically is never hot or cold ( Im from Texas/oklahoma so I know what HOT is... lol ) So any suggestions ? I like using synthetic but will it be too thin or thick in this ambient climate?

 

I have used tranny fluid very effectively for engine cleaning. YMMV

 

Anyone come up with the cure for the Disco Tick yet?? Mine has been clapping exactly like that when warm for 2 years now. So long that I almost dont even notice.

 

i didnt think the cause was really a mystery once one actually dives into the engine?...
it only seems like its mystifying to those who havent done their valve train repairs yet...

 

Slang,

When you pull the oil pan off, check both mating surfaces to ensure they are not only clean but that there are no dings or other surface issuesx that would account for a leak.

Use a flat edge or a flat surface to make sure the mating surface of the oil pan is flat. Often times, the oil pan can get deformed such that it does not mate cleanly to the bottom of the motor. This can account for leaks.

You may have quite a bit of gunk in there. It will be interesting to see when you do open her up.

 

was wondering about you today danny......hope all is well. i'll keep that in mind but i expect to have a real mechanic do/help with putting the oil pan back on the truck....as of now i'm going with the cork gasket and not using the Right Stuff.

i'm about to get to this job. i'm really interested in the oil pressure gauge.

as for the tick...my novice mind says lifter....i'm making an oil adjustment and checking pressure but I'm expecting to have to replace lifters (and camshaft).

VCG...i think we're talking on both the D1 and D2 forums. if i was still in the city i'd surely come for a visit.

 

I been pretty tied up lately, but things are beginnng to come together pretty well once again. The grandkids and their mother are in the process of moving back to NC, so things will be much quieter around here soon. I will miss them, but we all need a change.

I got to get back to doing a few things on my Disco and get it inspected. The cops were here a couple of week ago and they noticed the stickers were long expired on the Rover so it's been sitting since that little fiasco.

 

we don't need no stinkin badges....

i was shocked today when the cop called me by my name. that's not good.

 

Didn't read all 10 pages of this thread but there are a couple of things besides
oil pressure and lifters that cause ticks and knocks on the disco 1

First the rocker arm/pushrod cups. these can loosen up and a constant or intermittant ticking noise. You can check the rocker cups by sticking a small
jewlers screwdriver into the oil hole and try to spin or wiggle the cup. there are also
certain years that these were problematic. (specific date code on the rockers)

Second the camshaft knocking that can also kind of sound like a tick. disco 1 3.9L fix was to install a cam button to keep the cam from knocking it was kind of a hokey fix but it worked. early4.0gems there was a cam plate to cam clearance issue the fix was more involved where material had to be remove from the cam plate to bring the tolerances to manufacturers spec. later gems or bosch IIRC there was a half moom cam plate. To remove the excess cam freeplay the end of the cam had to be machined.
If you're taking this apart for a cam anyway let me know, I'll dig up the TIB and part numbers for tha cam button install, if you want the date codes for the rockers I can find that also.
PS.. Right stuff is the right stuff to use imo...