Hey everyone! This is my first post here, hope someone can help me out, it would be greatly appreciated.

Ok, so I got a 1999 Discovery SD. It broke down on me a few weeks ago. I ended it up towing it from San Antonio to my home town. I took it to a mechanic and needed to replace all the spark plugs. He got it to start, but its not giving any gas, so I need a new fuel pump. I checked at Oreillys and they got one for 500$ which is way too expensive for me. After looking around online for a while, I got a few questions I need answered before I can purchase:

1.) What is an evaporative type fuel system and do I need this on the fuel pump for my 1999 rover?

2.) What is the pressure sensor and would I also need this?

3.) Is there any additional parts I should know about when replacing my fuel pump?

thanks in advance,
rey

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...el-pump-53083/
$20 replacement fuel pump for Land Rover Discovery I

 

There are 2 fuel pumps used on Discovery 1's. If it has a charcoal canister, it is the cheaper one. If it doesn't, it has the aep (advanced system) and uses the more expensive one. 1999 may have the more expensive one...It is possible to just replace the fuel pump motor once you take the pump/level sensor assembly out.

I purchased my Carbon canister type fuel pump online from Florida for $100. Afterwards I found that the fuel pump wasn't the problem. The wiring was the problem and after 2 weeks of tracking down components and trying to understand the electrical prints, I fund the connector at the inertia switch under the hood was burnt. bypassing the connector (soldered the 2 wires together) made the problem disappear.

You can easily get to the top of the fuel pump by going under the rear cargo carpet and unbolting the round cover in the middle of the floor. Under that you will find the fuel pump. you should get 12v on the purple/white wire for about 10-15 sec after the key is turned on. If you have that, and the ground wire has continuity to ground, it is safe to say the pump is bad. You can also connect 12v directly to the pump and it should run.

There are 2 wires that run the fuel gauge, don't put 12v across those as it will most likely burn out the gas level sensor.

 

Here're some specs on the pumps
97 D1 Fuel Pump

99.9% sure the '99 D1 uses the same pump as my '97.

 

Enjoyed the "cheap bastard" and "job" threads between you and PT.... Thank you sir.

Intermission over, continue on with the current thread.

 

Thanks for the advice! My mechanic took out the assembly today. Looks like a wire was burnt out and disintegrating. I put the pic here:

http://s780.photobucket.com/user/wel...tml?sort=3&o=1

He checked the two connections as well he said the wider one was out and not giving current. I put a pic of the connector.

http://s780.photobucket.com/user/wel...tml?sort=3&o=0

Gonna buy a new assembly tomorrow, found one for 300. Hopefully everything works out good.

 

I did this replacement about a year ago with airtex from auto zone when my issue ended up actually being the pickup in my dizzy as I have a 95 DI and or poor grounding. but the pump replacement was pretty straight forward and I have new wiring in the tank and ignition. All good to go. Good luck!

 

I got the new fuel pump in and waited till I got a new power steering return, till I drove it. Made it good back to san antonio. It has been working good for a couple days now. I was driving quite a bit today, about 3 trips of 30 min. Now it doesn't wanna start again. I don't what it could be. I got a relatively new starter, new spark plugs, and a new fuel pump. Any ideas?

 

Is it cranking over okay ? If so, check the fuel pressure. I had a problem when I replaced my fuel pump. It was fine for a couple of days, then no pressure. I pulled the pump and the feed line inside the tank had blown off it's nipple (that may sound a little kinky, sorry). The pump was pumping, but fuel was just recirculating in the tank and not getting to the fuel rail.

 

I remember when I got my 95 3.9 disco1. I chased almost the same issue. replaced stepping motor (IAC), coil, wires and plugs and fuel pump. Turns out it was the connection from the ICM ignition control module causing intermittent delivery of spark to plugs. Never replaced the ICM because it is good. If you nee d one get the one for 81 buick 215 motor.I tested with ohm meter and results were under 2 ohms as it should be 2.5 - 5 ohms. Upon testing the pickup I pulled months later ( as I am a pack rat of sorts) it read with in range specified in RAVE. Also, the pressure regulator was marginal. I hooked up the rubber tire clad tire pressure gauge from auto zone or advance and it read about 24 psi. No I did not attach a hose between the schrader valve on the rail and the gauge but it did work in a pinch.

Check the wire from the coil pack to the dizzy. As well, Part of my issue was that the pre gap on the plugs was not propper for the 3.9.... check rave for that. I can't remember what it is to be. Do your homw work. Get a RAVE manual un your PC and get INTO it. lol