95 Disco. 120K. Here is the issue. I can get the cdl to lock and unlock. That is very smooth at this point. I can hear and have seen the linkage shift out to the passenger side. In neutral, I can get the cdl into neutral, but have to kill my hands to get it back into high, and no shot at getting it into low. I have gotten it into low while it was rolling (though not an easy chore) as I've read that helps.

I've got the center counsel out as I've just replaced the gear shift (that works fine) so I thought I would tackle this too. Have read many threads here re and thought I could do it. I got the gaiter off and put anti seize lubricant on thick and heavy. Moved it back and forth (lock and unlock I should say). Got under the truck and sprayed WD40 as close to the box as I could and covered the linkage with it.

Got back in the truck and moved it out of high (yes in neutral with the truck on) into neutral heard the chiming and then got stuck there for a good fifteen minutes. It finally moved back into high, but can't get to low.

Any suggestions? Is there a way to make high to low easier? Thanks.

 

I am going to be very frank with you on this as you sound somewhat confused and I have torn mine down and completely reworked it back into "smooth as butter" operation as my buddy Rob once described to me.

Be very careful forcing it as you can easily damage the small linkages going down to the actual diff lock.

First off, realize that "CDL" is locking and unlocking the center diff by moving the shifter from side to side. This should function regardless if you are in gear or neutral as long as your wheels are not slipping ( like spinning freely in mud as in being stuck and holding the gas down).

It is independent of whether your transfer case is in HIGH or LOW.

Yes the same shifter also changes your TC from HIGH to LOW and if properly functioning requires that your transmission be placed in neutral.
The TC also has a Neutral postion, the CDL does not have a neutral. On dry pavement leave the CDL unlocked to avoid damage.

If going off-road, wet conditions, snow where more traction is required LOCK the CDL which you can do on the fly as long as you have not already lost traction and have the wheesl "Spinning".

If you got it all apart already, you are pretty far along with fixing it. Forget WD40. Go buy PB Blaster pentrant and spray liberally on all the linkages especially at the little pivot points. They use spring clips holding clevis pins in place in the pivot points. I replaced all my spring clips and clevis pins because they looked so crappy, this helped immensely. RN has all the parts you could need.

I also had to put a socket on the nut on the lower plate that actually pivots to lock the CDL, using a long extension on a speed drive to initially move that lower plate as it was "frozen" in position. See first picture. Finally I had to replace the CDL switch to get the CDL light to come on when CDL is locked.

After a lot of frustration working with all those small parts, it now shifts " Smooth as Butter" and the CDL light on the dash works showing that it is engaged. Use it frequently and it will continue to shift.

If it has been off-roaded a lot in mud and not maintained it will get really corroded. If it is rarely used, it will also freeze up.

I even went so for as to make an access panel in the tunnel sidewall/passenger's floorpanel to allow better access to my linkages.

I like to see and be able to feel what I work on. I have since patched it now that it all works well.

Hopefully the pictures will help you out. Bottom line is it should work smoothly or it will get you when you need it most.

Have fun with yours. I did.

 

Thanks, not confused with how it works. It locks and unlocks left to right but does not go high to low front to back. Your prior threads to others have been helpful in that regard. I'll try PB Blaster. An access panel would be handy for sure. No idea how to get tools up in that area otherwise. Been offroading several times and there is dry mud everywhere. I'll keep at it.

 

Cool,

On mine I got extremely frustrated with the limited access and the difficulty of trying to get to the CDL Switch which had frozen on mine.

Since I had the carpets out, I eyeballed where I could safely drill some corner holes and then used aviation tin snips and slowly started cutting.
Using large adjustable pliers I folded the pieces back to enlarge it enough for my oversized hands and to be able to see what I was working on.

My wife did not like it, but she rarely does. Upon completion I beat it back down, sealed it with RTV and then formed an aluminum patch from some scrap sheet metal, drilled and riveted it in place.

Did you remove the lower rubber boot and it's mounting plate or just the trim gaiter?

I am more familar with the CDL shift mechanism than I am with the High/Low portion of the T/C. By all means, treat it gently unless you got lots of bucks to spend.

 

I knew that gaiter question was coming, and yes I just took a utility knife to it. I got some strong epoxy to glue it back together. Given the overall condition of the truck (rust not mechanical – drives fine) I figure the epoxy will hold together longer than the bodywork. What’s funny is I can stick a screw driver straight through the passenger floor from below. I’ll bet if I take the carpet out I could make an instant panel pretty quickly with a hammer. That said, I’m not anxious to learn how to take the linkage apart and put it back together. Not lazy, just know my mechanical and technical limitations. I’ll get some PB Blaster on the way home and start coating it tonight. Unless others have thoughts on the high low aspect of the T/C. Again, the lock unlock is moving “like butter”.

I’ll keep digging through the posts to see if I can find a similar problem/solution but would appreciate any feedback from others if you’ve had a similar issue.

Thanks.

 

To shift it from high to low and back into high I need to keep my truck rolling very slow. No more than 5 km/h should do the trick.

 

Yes, that does work for me as well, though still difficult. I was doing all this in my garage stationary. thanks. Hoping to make it smooth like the lock unlock.

 

I have to be slightly rolling as well to get it into low. Everything shifts fine, it is just getting it meshed up right. Don't force it too much as you may bend the linkage, which may be why you are having problems now..

 

there is a solnoid that stops it from going high to low unless the truck is in neutral if it goes bad that would cause your prob. but I'm not sure if it will let you go into neutral(transfer case) or if it locks it into high. maybe someone with theirs still intact could find that out.

 

That's what I was thinking Okdisco. You may have bent the linkage trying to force it forward and back. It may actually be freed up now but the binding is coming from the linkage.