Ok, so I am a new Discovery guy and find myself with a LOT of work to do on this beast.

My question is: I have been putting never-seize on lug nuts for years - the threads gall and make them really hard to get on and off.

Now ,y research on the internet has lead me to the conclusion that the main strike against doing this comes from large fleet owners who view it as a legal liability - post accident it is easy to identify and to stupid people sounds plausible.

Now, I am a mechanical engineer for the navy who deals with lubricated and dry torque values everyday shipboard and am well aware of the increased clamping force generated by torquing a lubricated thread to dry values, and will recalculate torques accordingly.

Any reason not to do this? It seems as I look through the RAVE, they consistantly cal for locktite in places I might be slathering on never-seize if left to my own devices.

Any thoughts? Chcken Littles need not reply, just looking for experience,

Thanks

 

I guess I may be a chicken little, but I do have to say....

I have owned about 150 cars and trucks, of all types and for all uses, from classics to farm equipment.... and I have never had an issue taking off a lug nut that was on normally (without the anti seize) My friend owns a tire store, and he has never put anti seize on lugs...

A lug is the LAST thing I would want to come "unseized"

 

I use it. Mostly for anti corrosion. I not only pu a little dab on the lugs, but I smear a little on the mating surface of the wheel and hub. It idsplaces water nicely.

 

I don't use it on the lug nuts and studs, but I do use it on the wheel/hub mating surface. I have my tires rotated and balanced every oil change (5,000 mikes) so I'm not too worried about lug nuts seizing. I did have 2 wheels seized to the hubs after I had all the lug nuts removed several years ago when I bought it.

 

I've simply used chassis grease on my vehicles for decades, including the hub surfaces on my RR & DI.

never had a problem (except the first time I removed my RR rims, LOL)

luck,greg

 

Being a Audi tech I can say I never used anti sieze on lug nuts, studs, or bolts. Better to use a tap and dye and clean up the threads and get a proper torque. I would recommend using it on the hubs though.

 

I dont use it on the Rover because I can never get the lugs off anyway because the tire tool wont fit because of those stupid tin caps...but on my wifes Volvo with studs instead of lug nuts I use it, and they still seize up because the studs go through the rotors and soak up all the heat and the studs are chrome and the rotors are of course steel.

 

I've been using Bostik Never-Seeze on Land Rover lug nuts for over 30 years. Never had one come loose.
I don't apply it every time I undo the lug nuts though, I find that about once a year is enough.

I started out with regular grade and used that for about 5 or so years. Then got Pure Nickel when I got in to diesels (to use on the injectors) and used that on lug nuts when I was out of the Regular. I've recently bought some Mariners Choice marine grade for lug nuts and fasteners that are more exposed to water and road chemicals.
I save the Nickel now just for spark plugs and other high temp applications.
http://www.bostik-us.com/our-brands/...z/default.html

Wheels and lug nuts are designed to work together so the lug nuts don't come loose. If they weren't the lug nuts would back off regardless if you use anti-seize or not. Like the early generations of white spoke wheels. You had to constantly re-tighten the lug nuts because the wheels were of poor design.

 

Get the solid lug nuts like the older Range Rovers use. I love mine. Would not go back to the chrome caps ever again.

 

There are 2 problems with that Danny, 1-I cannot find them, and when I do the description does not say "solid", 2-$$$.